NCL2 wrapup

This was a full month of travel – 26 days on a cruise (Norwegian Jade), almost 4 full days in Anchorage and a long flight home. It was a good trip, overall, but had some bumps. I will review the ship first, followed by an accounting of highlights and lowlights.

The Norwegian Jade

Norwegian Jade

This is one of the older (launched 2006) and smaller ships in the Norwegian fleet (about 2,400 capacity and carrying only 2,000 on this cruise). We expected an older, smaller ship as we had seen it in port last year. But I hadn’t cruised Norwegian in over 20 years and Marlene had never been on any cruise line other than Carnival, so neither of us knew exactly what to expect. In evaluating the ship we naturally compare it to our Carnival experiences. So how did it stack up?

Not well.

The ship itself was in good condition and the layout – with the possible exception of the main dining room – was designed well. It was relatively easy to find the venue we were seeking. The dining room, located on Deck 6 aft, had to be accessed from Deck 7. As we were on Deck 5 that meant we had to walk up two decks, go aft then walk down to 6. Inconvenient. It had a nice view out the stern, but because of the inconvenience we mostly dined in the second, somewhat smaller, dining room.

The single salt water pool was small and we used it just once – it was too chilly to use after Acapulco, which meant that the pool was irrelevant for the second half of the cruise. The hot tubs were used throughout, but we did not use them after Acapulco.

The ship has two good dance venues – the Bliss Lounge on Deck 7 and the Spinnaker Lounge on Deck 13. A third music venue – Magnum’s – has no dance floor and so is most appropriate for listening to live music and isn’t very good for that as the music competes with noise from the bar. The problem we had was that the best dance music was provided by the Rockaway Duo which was booked into Magnum’s about half the time. The Jade Orchestra, which was a pale shadow of the Luminosa Rockband, was usually in the Spinnaker Lounge, playing elevator music. So many nights there was no venue where we could dance. We appreciated the Rockaway Duo, but the other music could have been much improved – to a Carnival level – if the band had been better and if the groups had been assigned to venues more intelligently.

The casino was large. And mostly unused. Unlike our Carnival experience where the casinos are very busy, this casino was dead. Perhaps this was due to the older, more laid-back passengers, but it was also due to this having the tightest slot machines we have ever experienced on a cruise. Both Marlene and I lost money, which is to be expected, but we had less fun losing the money than we expected. These machines just never paid. I don’t think I had more than a $10 winning day the last two weeks of the cruise. Constant losing is a drag.

The big surprise to us, in the ship, was the presence of O’Sheehan’s – a 24-hour complimentary sitdown pub. We have never had the option of being served after midnight on a Carnival ship.

The passengers, as I mentioned, were generally older and more sedate than the people who travel Carnival. A lot of people on the Jade seemed to have purchased the drinks package – which is cheaper than the package on Carnival – and were content to sit in the bar all day. Others were content reading and doing crossword puzzles. Not exactly a dynamic group of passengers. But we met a lot of nice people. And a lot of German- and Spanish-speaking passengers, so Marlene had many opportunities to practice her foreign language skills. I tried to keep up with the German conversations and was marginally successful.

There were just 2 full productions in the theater in the 25 nights. Carnival would have had at least 8 full-scale productions in the same span. Most of the shows were single vocalists or comedians (and the comedy was much inferior to what would be found on a Carnival cruise). The final production was terrific, but it was too little too late.

The crew was wonderful – every bit as good as a Carnival crew. We especially appreciated the singing breakfast coffee crew and the “washy washy” girl who greeted us every morning in the buffet, cajoling us to sanitize our hands before dining. They provided a bright start to each day.

The weather was generally good, except for Juneau. We had some rough sea days, but I never got seasick. Either the ship’s stabilizers were particularly effective, or I am finally getting over my tendency to become seasick. And we were both healthy throughout, with only some minor sniffles in the days after the cold weather hit.

In addition to the mishandling of the music venues, we had some other issues with how the ship was managed:

  • Three ports were dropped – Nicaragua before the cruise began, Columbia and Cabo San Lucas. We didn’t buy the reasons given for Columbia and Cabo San Lucas. And we never received a refund for the port tax in Columbia. We have to file a “claim” if we want the port tax back. Carnival would have refunded it immediately.
  • The ship docked about 5 miles from where we were told it would dock in San Francisco. No shuttle buses were provided and no information on alternate transportation was offered. We learned that the change in port had been known for 3 days but we were never notified of the change.
  • There were a number of times when the time to return to the ship was changed at the last minute. The worst case was San Francisco where it was changed from 10pm to 8:30pm. We nearly missed the ship because we did not notice the change. These changes should have been communicated more effectively.
  • The NCL app (downloaded to our phones) was pathetically bad. On Carnival the app can be used to explore deck plans, peruse activities (and mark those of interest with notification when they are approaching), buy internet service, view menus in the dining rooms and communicate with fellow passengers. It can also be used, on shore, to check the ship’s time and “back on board” time. None of these features are available on the NCL app. Useless.

We booked this cruise for its itinerary, and, except for the dropped ports, the itinerary was every bit as good as we hoped.

Now for the highlights and lowlights of the trip, aside from the ship:

Highlights:

  • San Francisco. Marlene had never been to San Francisco, except to change planes. We enjoyed a full day with the hop-on, hop-off bus and got to see many of the major sights: Fisherman’s Wharf, Chinatown, Haight-Ashbury and the Golden Gate Bridge. We also got a ride on the famous cable cars and found our way home using trolley and electric bus. But the thing that made it truly memorable is that we nearly missed the ship. We arrived at 8:28pm for an 8:30pm departure. But we thought we had plenty of time and only returned “early” because we wanted Easter dinner. Yikes! All’s well that ends well?
  • Panama Canal. This was a “bucket list” item for both of us and it didn’t disappoint. Fascinating engineering. The weather wasn’t great – light rain – but it didn’t spoil the experience. I will include our shopping experience in Colon, Panama, too. Cheap, cheap, cheap. We still marvel at the pair of insulated cups with Bluetooth speakers that we bought for $5.50 each. We do love a bargain.
  • San Jose, Guatemala. This wasn’t an excursion; it was just us getting a taxi into town and wandering about. We managed to get some local currency, found some clothes for Marlene, got a free radish and cake and Marlene was given a pair of earrings by a shopkeeper. The hustle and bustle and general chaos of the city was memorable.
  • Los Angeles. We did two tourist things – visited the Walk of Fame in Hollywood and the Santa Monica Pier – and both were fun. But the things that made the day truly memorable were meeting a young couple at the Taco Bell Cantina (and having a $5 margarita) and traveling on public transit all day for a grand total of $9. A triumph of public transportation!
  • Astoria OR. This was a minor port but was memorable for us because we had lunch with my sister there. And she took us to the Astoria Tower. A nice day with family.
  • Thunderbird Falls. This “minor” attraction turned out to be far more fulfilling than the wasted trip to Denali. A nice hike which produced some beautiful photos.
  • The 4th State Brewery in Anchorage. Good beer, good food, lively atmosphere and a water view. Very, very nice.
  • The excursion in Costa Rica. This was a private excursion to see the countryside. It did show us the country but the real highlight was the beers (3 at 24 oz, 1 at 12 oz) with the guide and two other passengers at the end of the excursion. As Dean, my drinking buddy would say, “brilliant!” I was lucky to find my way back to the ship
  • Jewelry. Marlene left her rings at home. Accidentally, she said. But it gave her an excuse to find some rings – and earrings and a bracelet – on shore. She scored some good deals on sterling jewelry.
  • The Rockaway Duo. I mention this couple above, but we wouldn’t have danced much for a month had they not been on the ship. A lovely couple and a great voice on her. Thanks, guys!

The other ports – Acapulco, Ketchikan and Skagway – were not disappointing but were not very memorable.

Lowlights:

  • The Wingate by Wyndham Hotel in Anchorage. This hotel was undergoing extensive renovations while we were there. It was both annoying and dangerous. The management should have either closed the hotel or done the renovations one wing or floor at a time. Doing everything all at once made for a miserable hotel experience.
  • Denali. I was really hoping to see the tallest mountain in North America, but the trip was wasted. Too cloudy and too foggy. And the road there was not interesting at all. We should have spent the day in Anchorage.
  • Juneau. The town was interesting but the weather was miserable. We got very chilled, as did many other passengers on the ship. There were a lot of people with colds after we left Juneau.
  • The Hubbard Glacier. Rather than transit it, close up, we did a “360 turn” several miles away. We really didn’t get to see it at all.
  • The lack of an “elegant night.” Marlene loves to dress up and some of her favorite nights on a Carnival cruise are the elegant nights. She packed several gowns that went unworn.

Bottom line: not a perfect trip by any means, but a memorable one.

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NCL2 Days 27-29: Anchorage AK

We stayed at the Wingate by Wyndham in Anchorage for 3 nights. The construction, that was well underway when we arrived, got progressively worse each day. I am baffled why the hotel management thought it was acceptable to undertake that scale of renovations without disclosing the situation when someone booked a room. And why significant discounts for the mess were not offered.

By the end of the third day the condition of the floor in the lobby and breakfast areas was so deplorable that it was a significant safety hazard. I think a building inspector, had he been invited to view the property, would have condemned it. But no building inspector was involved because, I believe, no permits were pulled to do this work. Unconscienable.

On the third day the laundry room was out of commission and there was no ice anywhere in the hotel. Awful. Dust everywhere. Not pleasant at all. But the bedroom was okay, which made it all tolerable.

Day 27

Me and my chowder

We started the day with breakfast in the dusty breakfast room at the hotel, then I went to the room to blog and edit photos while Marlene went off the explore Anchorage on foot. We tried, and failed, to meet up for lunch. I took a nap. We met for dinner at 49th State Brewing. I had some very good seafood chowder and a flight of craft beers – three lagers and a pilsner. I took home a quart of the smoky lager. Very good.

We played cards that night.

Day 28

We had met a couple from England who expressed an interest in driving up to see Denali with us, but she was not feeling well that morning so after breakfast Marlene and I headed out alone.

We should have stayed home, too. The trip was pretty much a complete waste of time. The road north, which I expected to be mountainous and lined with places for good photos, was straight, flat and not interesting at all. The day was gray with just a few breaks of sun and the mountains were fogged in. We stopped in Talkeetna, which was smaller and more rustic than I expected. We didn’t even go into any of the shops. And we had to backtrack to get to the Denali viewing spots – I thought we would be able to drive through – so that was 30 wasted miles.

But Marlene took the opportunity to make a snowball and throw it at me. And later we stopped on a bridge over a river that still had big chunks of ice.

When we finally got to the Denali viewing spots they were closed. And Denali was nowhere in sight. We later found that there is a “30% Club” – only about 30% of the tourists who trek to Denali actually see it.

Disappointing.

The sun did break out as we returned to Anchorage, so we got some nice photos of the mountains that ring the city.

Mountains near Anchorage
More mountains

We “dined” on leftovers in our hotel room, then played cards.

Day 29

We had breakfast in the dusty breakfast room, then checked out of the hotel. Good riddance.

We went next door to the Ulu knife factory and bought a commemorative knife, engraved with our names and the date. Then we drove to Thunderbird Falls for a 1-mile “mostly flat” hike to see the falls.

Mostly flat, my ass. While not as arduous at Mount Mondadnock, it wasn’t a piece of cake. But worth it. We got some nice photos on the mile-long hike to the viewing platform.

The hike was along the rim of a deep gorge. At many points there were signs warning of sharp cliffs and stay away! So of course each warning sign had well-worn paths where hikers had walked to the edge to see how steep the cliffs were.

There was one branch off the path to the viewing platform, labeled “brook trail.” It led down the gorge to the Eklutna River. I was not eager to go down a fairly steep trail because I would just have to climb up again. But Marlene insisted. So down we went.

The river was lined with ice and we had to walk on some of that ice – and slippery rocks – to get to where we could view the waterfall. But Marlene was determined, so we carefully navigated the path. And were rewarded with some very nice photos.

Our postcard shot of the falls

After the falls we visited the Salvation Army thrift store and Marlene found some treasures. I wasn’t happy about that as I knew we were either at our 50-pound luggage limit or possibly over. So we went to the post office to weigh the luggage. 50 lbs for mine, 54 lbs for hers. Without the extra stuff added.

We drove to Earthquake Park, a city park that commemorates the Good Friday earthquake of 1964. We repacked the bags in the parking lot, shifting some heavy items into our backpacks. Then we walked around the park which is built on a mile-long section of bluff that collapsed into the sea when the earthquake hit. Dozens of people died there. Kind of scary knowing that an earthquake can change a landscape so dramatically.

We visited the 49th State Brewery a second time. We shared some nachos and I had a pint of the Most Coast Pilsner, followed by a pint of the Amber Borealis. Both delicious.

Our final trip out of the city was a drive about 20 miles south, to get a shot of the mountains down there.

South of Anchorage, on the banks of the Knik Arm

Then to the airport, getting gas along the way.

Dropping off the car was easy, but we made getting to the gate difficult. First Marlene forgot her phone in the car and had to go get it. Then I got pulled aside at security because I had forgotten that we had put two cans of soda in the backpack. And Marlene forgot her insulated cup and had to go back for that, going through security a second time. But we finally made it to the gate. And waited nearly 3 hours.

We were very tired and we both napped a bit.

The 3.5 hour flight to Seattle was bumpy, which Marlene didn’t like at all. The hour in Seattle-Tacoma airport was spent finding the gate, which was moved to an entirely different terminal. We walked, I estimate, nearly a mile getting to our connecting flight to Miami. That 6 hour flight was uneventful. We played cards.

We waited for a few minutes in Miami for the arrival of Marlene’s brother. We stopped for dinner on the way back to his place – my treat. Marlene’s dog, Becky, was very happy to see us.

We were very tired. That’s what happens when a vacation lasts 30 days.

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NCL2 Day 26: Whittier and Anchorage AK

The Jade in Whittier

This was the last day of our 25-night cruise. The Norwegian Jade docked in Whittier AK at 7am and we were off the ship by 8am. The “long walk” to the bus was less than a quarter mile (Marlene thinks it was more, I think it was less) and the buses were waiting to take us to the airport. There is a one-way tunnel near the port which is the only way in or out of Whittier. It changes direction every 30 minutes. We were fortunate to catch it at the right time and had to wait only a few minutes to get out of the port.

I guess we were also fortunate that it was merely cloudy; Whitter gets about 200 inches of rain each year.

The 63-mile ride into Anchorage was scenic, but it is difficult taking photos through the dirty window of a moving bus.

We couldn’t unload at the airport until the luggage truck finished unloading so we took a brief detour through downtown Anchorage. Not a bad-looking medium-sized city (population about 600,000).

We were happy to have our luggage with us as the line to retrieve luggage was very long. We ran into a couple of folks from the ship and chatted a while before heading to the Avis car rental counter. They didn’t have a compact car available, but gave us a Toyota Cross (aka RAV4) for the same price. We drove to the hotel (Wingate by Marriott) and were told that our room wasn’t ready. So we walked next door to the Ulu knife factory and got a nice personalized tour of this small factory.

The hotel is undergoing extensive renovations – a fact that was not disclosed to me when I booked it. The hallways were a mess. And shortly after we arrived workmen started removing the floor tiles in the breakfast area. Dust everywhere. Not pleasant. We considered moving to another hotel but there aren’t many affordable (and available) ones in Anchorage. And our room, though basic, is updated, clean and has new mattresses. And a view of the dumpster.

It had no table or chair, but they were delivered promptly when we requested them.

We walked to downtown, did a little window shopping and found a nice craft brewery/restaurant that we will try during our stay.

The sun sets late here – it was still pretty light at 10pm.

I will provide the cruise wrapup next. Also what we did on our nearly 4 full days in Anchorage.

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NCL2 Day 25: At sea

Hubbard Glacier from a distance

This day was billed as a “glacier transit” day – a slow cruise near the Hubbard Glacier. Like much of this cruise itinerary, the plan changed. Rather than cruising near the glacier – which is 7 miles long where it meets the sea – we stopped several miles away and did a “360 turn” (a complete rotation of the ship), then left. The initial reason given was that ice conditions didn’t allow us to approach any closer. But I think the real reason was that the late departure from Skagway forced the captain to cut the slow transit.

Add loss of a glacier transit to the loss of the three ports (Nicaragua, Colon Columbia and Cabo San Lucas Mexico). Many passengers are feeling they are victims of a “bait-and-switch” scam. I don’t feel that way, but I am pretty disappointed.

As this was the last full cruise day, we passed out some gratuities to the crew members that stood out: Marly the “washy washy” girl and the coffee trio, Paul Galvin and Jeanette. We also sought out some special passengers and got contact information for a few.

After dinner we paid (literally) a final visit to the casino and cashed out what little remained in our accounts. Then we sat for the last show which was a second helping of Evolution: Motown. Very good.

We packed our suitcases – which took about an hour – then set the alarm for 5:30am and went to bed.

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NCL2 Day 24: Skagway AK

We docked early – around 6am – but we didn’t get off early. Because we had to make arrangements to get to Anchorage when the cruise ends.

Normally getting from the cruise terminal to the hotel is not difficult. But this cruise terminates in Whittier AK. As I have learned, Whittier is a tiny port. It was built as a secret naval base in World War II and hasn’t developed much since then. Almost the entire population lives in a single large building. There are no taxis. And it is 63 miles from Anchorage where we will spend three days.

I assumed that there would be many ways to get from Whittier to Anchorage. But I was wrong. Trains in Alaska don’t start service until mid-May, so that option was not available. The first private bus company that I called informed me that they don’t start operations until the first Monday in May – a week too late for us. The second one I called was fully booked. The only remaining option was to take the $100 per person bus transfer from the ship to the Anchorage airport.

But, as I found out when I booked the transfer, they wanted to send our luggage on a truck rather than the bus. When I told Marlene about that she hit the ceiling. So back down to the Guest Services desk to express our displeasure. He told us that the baggage arrangements were a “convenience” as it was a long walk from the ship to the bus. We said we did not want to be separated from our luggage. He shrugged. Our choice.

I hope we don’t have to walk a mile on broken glass.

While struggling to figure out how to get to Anchorage I spoke to a fellow passenger who had already booked the bus. He said he was going to rent a car at the airport and it wasn’t expensive. So I started thinking about how much nicer the nearly 4 days in Anchorage would be if we had a car. A little investigation showed that I could get a car for 4 days for under $200, insurance included. I booked it.

Finally, after a couple of hours the travel arrangements were completed. We consumed a small breakfast, then left the ship to explore Skagway.

There isn’t much to explore. It is a linear town of about 7 blocks. The shops are depressingly similar. There must be 20 jewelers. So we saw a lot of the same stuff.

At least the weather was better than Juneau’s. Around 50 degrees and partly sunny. With snow-capped mountains in all directions. Not a bad place to spend a few hours. But I don’t think I would like to live here.

Skagway has a railroad. It is strictly a tourist railroad now, but originally carried prospectors who arrived by ship to the Yukon during the Klondike Gold Rush.

The snow blower car on display at the station is probably not used much now, but snow is definitely a problem for this railroad. The track goes high into the mountains and an avalanche can cover the track. We learned that when the ship was delayed departing Skagway by the late return of an excursion on the train – a delay caused by an avalanche.

Giving CPR

There was a second reason for the delayed departure: the collapse of a passenger who was on the late train. He fell on the ramp to the pier. Doctors rushed to him and worked on him, giving CPR, for 33 minutes. He was taken on the ship, but it is unclear if he survived – we got conflicting reports from crew members. We think he probably died as 33 minutes of CPR is a very long time for a heart to be stopped.

There was another death earlier in the cruise, after Guatemala. A man suffered a pulmonary embolism and was taken off the ship as it passed near Cabo San Lucas. But he died before he reached the hospital.

It is nearly inevitable that at least one of the 2,000+ not-very-fit, mostly elderly passengers would die on a 25-night cruise.

I blogged a bit before dinner. At dinner we chatted with a retired New York City teacher who was married to a Filipino woman 35 years his junior. Interesting guy, beautiful wife and father of the two oldest of the 7 children on board – 14 and 10.

After dinner we rushed to catch the show – only the second full-scale production of the cruise. This one was, in a word, spectacular. It had dancers – a dozen or more – a magician who had some baffling tricks, including elevating a woman on jets of water, and the wonderful Ukranian acrobats that we had seen earlier in the cruise. A very fine show.

After the show we once again spent some time in the casino. And once again lost some money.

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NCL2 Day 23: Juneau AK

The Juneau waterfront

The Jade docked in Juneau around 9am and we headed into town shortly thereafter. It was a very cool (43 degrees), cloudy day and a steady rain soon began. Not a pleasant day for sightseeing so we weren’t tempted to take a whale watch, a trip to the Mendenhall glacier or to ride the tram up 1,800 feet. We mostly wandered and shopped.

Then we had a few moments of sheer panic as Marlene realized that she had lost her phone. And her ship card. And her driver’s license. And her credit card. But a helpful customer in the shop we were in when the loss was discovered called her number and her phone was answered by a woman at the security office near the ship. The phone had been found and had been turned in. We recovered it shortly thereafter.

We found several shops that sold some terrific native crafts. The best one was The Bald Eagle which had some incredible artworks in both wood and stone.

We bought some trinkets for friends and family and I got a nice ring (no, NOT a wedding ring) for Marlene. But our best purchase of the day was a huge bag of very good (think “movie theater”) popcorn for $8. It kept us energized until we got back to the ship for lunch. We also found a “crab fart” drink at the Mount Juneau Hotel – same as a duck fart but with rum instead of whiskey. I guess we are on the “fart” tour of Alaska.

The weather in Juneau started out bad and became worse. It was raining steadily and the temperature dropped to near 40 degrees by the time we got back on the ship. We were thoroughly chilled.

We napped for a LONG time after lunch – a combination of a long, cold day in Juneau and scratchy throats. I think the nap helped as we felt better by the time dinner rolled around – a late dinner, around 8pm.

We held our own in the casino for an hour, then finished the evening playing rummy. Marlene finished with a brilliant play.

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NCL2 Day 22: Ketchikan AK

Jade and Bliss in Ward Cove

We docked in Ward Cove which is a 15-minute bus ride from Ketchikan. But getting to the bus was the hard part of this journey – two ships (Norwegian Jade and Norwegian Bliss) were docked and thousands of passengers tried to get to town at the same time. The line to board the shuttle buses snaked through the terminal. We waited over 30 minutes to board our bus.

It was a cool, mostly cloudy day so the photos weren’t terrific. But the walk was easy and Marlene found lots of shops to look at. We wandered around, heading toward Creek Street, the old “red light” district. We were surprised to discover an Eagles club on the creek. We stopped in and had a drink. I had a local beer and Marlene tried the “duck fart” which was equal parts Crown Royal, Kahlua and Bailey’s Irish Cream. Very tasty.

After our drink we walked along Creek Street. One of the main attractions there is Dolly’s House, a former brothel. We didn’t go in.

After Creek Street we headed back to the bus, stopping briefly at a monument to pioneers on the waterfront. We also did some shopping in the Ward Cove terminal but didn’t buy much.

We had a late lunch on board the ship. I blogged until the ship departed. We had a very light dinner. We spent some time (and some money) in the casino before bed.

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NCL2 Day 21: At sea

We chatted for quite some time, during and after breakfast, with Terry and Theresa, a couple from Louisiana. We then headed for the casino but Marlene got involved with a German couple, HP and Anita, who were playing the German version of Yahtzee.

The casino was unkind again, but we have learned to limit our losses so no great damage done.

I did some photo editing, then we both napped.

After dinner we listened to some music, then I went to bed while Marlene tried the casino again, this time with better luck.

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NCL2 Day 20: Astoria OR

Marlene, Lois and me at the Breakwater Bistro

We had breakfast with HJ and Lynn, a couple from Hamburg, Germany. Marlene got to brush up on her German and I tried hard to follow along.

Then we went ashore and walked to the Breakwater Bistro where we met my sister Lois who traveled 2 hours up from Tillamook OR. She treated us to a lovely lunch. We gave her some candied nuts.

After lunch Lois drove us to the Astoria Tower, which we climbed. 196 steps. Piece of cake. Got a nice view from the top. Then she drove us back to the ship.

Back on the ship I did some blogging, then went to the casino where I won (but not much). We had dinner at O’Sheehan’s Pub, then played cards. We were both tired and fell asleep early.

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NCL2 Day 19: At sea

We dawdled in the morning. After breakfast I spent some time editing our San Francisco photos, then read a bit. We played cards and I lost badly. We also went to the casino and I lost badly. A very bad day for games.

At dinner we had a nice chat with Bob and Joan, a couple from Texas. After dinner we saw the show by Evolution Motown. Very good.

We ended the evening dancing to Rockaway Duo.

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