The ATW is taking shape

Until a few days ago the only parts of the upcoming 10-week around-the-world trip (starting mid-September) that we had booked were the two cruises – the 23-night transpacific and the 14-night transatlantic. But this week we booked a lot more. Many of the transportation details are now set. This is how it will go:

  • A flight from Ft Myers to Seattle-Tacoma and one night in Seattle.
  • The 23-night transpacific cruise on the Carnival Luminosa, Seattle-to-Sydney via Hawaii and Tahiti.
  • 3 nights in a hotel in Sydney near the Opera House.
  • A flight from Sydney to Rome via Chengdu China (with a 20-hour layover in Chengdu).
  • 2 nights in a hotel in Rome near Vatican City.
  • 14 or 15 days touring Europe by car (the car is booked but the hotels are not booked). The city sequence will possibly be: Venice, Munich, Paris, Blois (and the Loire Valley), Grenoble and Pisa.
  • 2 or 3 nights in a hotel in Rome.
  • The 14-night transatlantic cruise on the Carnival Miracle, Rome-to-Tampa.
  • A car or bus ride from Tampa home.

The only significant portions not booked are the hotels in Europe, the hotel in Rome after the car tour and the trip from Tampa home. We also have to arrange a number of transfers (e.g., home to the Ft Myers airport at the start, from SEATAC to Seattle, from the cruise terminal to the hotel in Sydney, etc.) but those are easy and relatively inexpensive.

The choice of the flight from Sydney to Rome via Chengdu was driven by price: the total package price for airfare for both of us and 2 nights in Rome was under $1,200! That is amazingly cheap, cheap, cheap! The flight is over 21 hours in the air. It means we have to forego Mumbai or Istanbul, but we will see China (from inside an airport terminal) instead.

The use of a car instead of trains (via Eurail pass) was driven by my concern over how difficult it would be to haul our large suitcases on and off trains and to/from hotels. Plus we have more freedom to see what we want when we want. I also discovered that the cost of renting a car was surprisingly low: the cost for a 2-week car rental is about the same as one Eurail pass, so with gas it will probably be about the same cost. We will also have more freedom to find cheap food.

Anyway, it looks almost certain that this epic trip will really happen. We just have to stay healthy.

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Eleventh trip north (TN_11) preview

Marlene and I have decided that we will, once again, go north for a few weeks this summer. This trip, my eleventh, will be designated TN_11. It will likely begin Thursday, July 17, and will span 10 nights and over 3,000 miles. The stops along the way are as follows:

  • Tallahassee FL. This will be an overnight stop, just because Ft Myers to Beaumont is too long for one hop.
  • Beaumont TX. We will stop for 3 days to see our good friends John and Debbie who moved to Beaumont from Lehigh Acres FL last year.
  • Hot Springs AR. I love this town and Marlene has never seen it. We will spend two nights here just so we have a full day in the city.
  • Pigeon Forge TN. There are a million things to do here but I would love to get back to Dollywood.
  • Cuyahoga Valley National Park. This must be the most obscure national park. I have no idea what is here but we will spend two nights in the area so that we will have a full day to explore.
TN_11 plan

Our destination is Worcester MA where we expect to stay with Jett’s brother and sister-in-law. While up there we will make an overnight trip to Maine to see if I can find my younger brother who has, once again, stopped communicating with everyone.

We will be taking Marlene’s pup, Becky, and that has, to some extent, influenced the route. Both Hot Springs and Cuyahoga Valley National Park are dog-friendly and Dollywood has Doggywood, a really fine dog daycare facility. We will have to find a hotel in Tallahassee that is dog-friendly.

Categories: Preparation/Planning, Routes, TN_11 | Leave a comment

Back to The Buck

Now that Ooma is gone, she can no longer lay claim to the Buckingham Blues Bar as “her” space. And, I assume, the ban imposed by the owner is no longer going to be enforced. So on Wednesday night this week, I (with Marlene on my arm) went back to The Buck.

It felt a bit like dancing on Ooma’s grave. But the fact that I could be there and she couldn’t felt damn good.

The music there is always great but the drinks are relatively expensive. We will go back occasionally, but there are many other bands and better venues, so it won’t be a regular thing. But it is great to have the option once again.

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The absolute last of Ooma

Ooma died May 21. I can’t post her obituary here and maintain her anonymity but if anyone wants a link to her obituary, send me a message.

UPDATE: I was told that she died in New Hampshire, of complications from some kind of simple, low-risk surgery.

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Out with the old(er), in with the new(er)

I guess this is the month for vehicles. Got the truck back (see previous post) and gave some thought to upgrading my other ride – my 2017 Toyota Corolla. It was running just fine, but was getting a bit “long in the tooth” – almost 130,000 miles. My plan was to exchange it for a small SUV in the fall or spring, in anticipation of a long road trip next summer.

So I started browsing, mostly on cars.com. I found a handful of nearby vehicles that were interesting. I was looking for a used SUV that was 2020 vintage or newer, had low mileage and was under $20,000. I saw one 2020 Hyundai Tucson that had just 26,000 miles and was selling for $18,000. Thought it might be worth a look. I marked it “saved” – for future consideration, I guess.

About 10 minutes later I got a call from the dealership. Cars.com notifies the dealer, it seems, when someone takes note of a vehicle in their inventory. Ah, computers – ain’t they great?

Anyway, Marlene and I were headed into Ft Myers to do some dancing so why not stop by and take a look?

Long story short, I now am driving a 2020 Hyundai Tucson. Marlene was my negotiator. With taxes, title transfer and everything else, plus trade-in, I got it for $13,325. Didn’t test drive it, which was probably stupid, but it seems to run great.

We drove it to the dance. Just a little detour to swap vehicles en route.

My new ride
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Back from the dead

I got my truck back this week. It had been in the shop for nearly 2 months. Before my last cruise I had been unable to get it to start. It turned over but didn’t fire. I figured it was a computer issue. Probably an EXPENSIVE computer issue.

So I had it towed to the garage. It wasn’t a priority with me and it certainly wasn’t a priority with them, so they did little or nothing before we left on the cruise. I called to make sure it was okay with them to just leave it there until I returned. It was.

I thought the chances of it ever running again were low. I gave it up for dead and went on the cruise.

When I returned I gave them a call, expecting the worst. But, much to my surprise, they said it was running! But the guy who had the details was out and would call me back. He didn’t.

I was in the neighborhood of the shop the next day so I dropped in. Yes, they said, it was running fine. Great, I said. What was the problem?

“No problem that we could find. It started right up and ran fine when you brought it in.”

I think I gave them my best “WTF?” look. I try everything for 10 days and can’t get it to fire and the moment I bring it into the shop it fixes itself? I was dumfounded.

Anyway, I paid $168 for their diagnostic time (mostly driving around using my fuel) and took the truck home.

I am pretty sure that it will, sooner or later, just stop working again. Probably when it is least convenient. But for now I have a usable truck.

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NCL2 wrapup

This was a full month of travel – 26 days on a cruise (Norwegian Jade), almost 4 full days in Anchorage and a long flight home. It was a good trip, overall, but had some bumps. I will review the ship first, followed by an accounting of highlights and lowlights.

The Norwegian Jade

Norwegian Jade

This is one of the older (launched 2006) and smaller ships in the Norwegian fleet (about 2,400 capacity and carrying only 2,000 on this cruise). We expected an older, smaller ship as we had seen it in port last year. But I hadn’t cruised Norwegian in over 20 years and Marlene had never been on any cruise line other than Carnival, so neither of us knew exactly what to expect. In evaluating the ship we naturally compare it to our Carnival experiences. So how did it stack up?

Not well.

The ship itself was in good condition and the layout – with the possible exception of the main dining room – was designed well. It was relatively easy to find the venue we were seeking. The dining room, located on Deck 6 aft, had to be accessed from Deck 7. As we were on Deck 5 that meant we had to walk up two decks, go aft then walk down to 6. Inconvenient. It had a nice view out the stern, but because of the inconvenience we mostly dined in the second, somewhat smaller, dining room.

The single salt water pool was small and we used it just once – it was too chilly to use after Acapulco, which meant that the pool was irrelevant for the second half of the cruise. The hot tubs were used throughout, but we did not use them after Acapulco.

The ship has two good dance venues – the Bliss Lounge on Deck 7 and the Spinnaker Lounge on Deck 13. A third music venue – Magnum’s – has no dance floor and so is most appropriate for listening to live music and isn’t very good for that as the music competes with noise from the bar. The problem we had was that the best dance music was provided by the Rockaway Duo which was booked into Magnum’s about half the time. The Jade Orchestra, which was a pale shadow of the Luminosa Rockband, was usually in the Spinnaker Lounge, playing elevator music. So many nights there was no venue where we could dance. We appreciated the Rockaway Duo, but the other music could have been much improved – to a Carnival level – if the band had been better and if the groups had been assigned to venues more intelligently.

The casino was large. And mostly unused. Unlike our Carnival experience where the casinos are very busy, this casino was dead. Perhaps this was due to the older, more laid-back passengers, but it was also due to this having the tightest slot machines we have ever experienced on a cruise. Both Marlene and I lost money, which is to be expected, but we had less fun losing the money than we expected. These machines just never paid. I don’t think I had more than a $10 winning day the last two weeks of the cruise. Constant losing is a drag.

The big surprise to us, in the ship, was the presence of O’Sheehan’s – a 24-hour complimentary sitdown pub. We have never had the option of being served after midnight on a Carnival ship.

The passengers, as I mentioned, were generally older and more sedate than the people who travel Carnival. A lot of people on the Jade seemed to have purchased the drinks package – which is cheaper than the package on Carnival – and were content to sit in the bar all day. Others were content reading and doing crossword puzzles. Not exactly a dynamic group of passengers. But we met a lot of nice people. And a lot of German- and Spanish-speaking passengers, so Marlene had many opportunities to practice her foreign language skills. I tried to keep up with the German conversations and was marginally successful.

There were just 2 full productions in the theater in the 25 nights. Carnival would have had at least 8 full-scale productions in the same span. Most of the shows were single vocalists or comedians (and the comedy was much inferior to what would be found on a Carnival cruise). The final production was terrific, but it was too little too late.

The crew was wonderful – every bit as good as a Carnival crew. We especially appreciated the singing breakfast coffee crew and the “washy washy” girl who greeted us every morning in the buffet, cajoling us to sanitize our hands before dining. They provided a bright start to each day.

The weather was generally good, except for Juneau. We had some rough sea days, but I never got seasick. Either the ship’s stabilizers were particularly effective, or I am finally getting over my tendency to become seasick. And we were both healthy throughout, with only some minor sniffles in the days after the cold weather hit.

In addition to the mishandling of the music venues, we had some other issues with how the ship was managed:

  • Three ports were dropped – Nicaragua before the cruise began, Columbia and Cabo San Lucas. We didn’t buy the reasons given for Columbia and Cabo San Lucas. And we never received a refund for the port tax in Columbia. We have to file a “claim” if we want the port tax back. Carnival would have refunded it immediately.
  • The ship docked about 5 miles from where we were told it would dock in San Francisco. No shuttle buses were provided and no information on alternate transportation was offered. We learned that the change in port had been known for 3 days but we were never notified of the change.
  • There were a number of times when the time to return to the ship was changed at the last minute. The worst case was San Francisco where it was changed from 10pm to 8:30pm. We nearly missed the ship because we did not notice the change. These changes should have been communicated more effectively.
  • The NCL app (downloaded to our phones) was pathetically bad. On Carnival the app can be used to explore deck plans, peruse activities (and mark those of interest with notification when they are approaching), buy internet service, view menus in the dining rooms and communicate with fellow passengers. It can also be used, on shore, to check the ship’s time and “back on board” time. None of these features are available on the NCL app. Useless.

We booked this cruise for its itinerary, and, except for the dropped ports, the itinerary was every bit as good as we hoped.

Now for the highlights and lowlights of the trip, aside from the ship:

Highlights:

  • San Francisco. Marlene had never been to San Francisco, except to change planes. We enjoyed a full day with the hop-on, hop-off bus and got to see many of the major sights: Fisherman’s Wharf, Chinatown, Haight-Ashbury and the Golden Gate Bridge. We also got a ride on the famous cable cars and found our way home using trolley and electric bus. But the thing that made it truly memorable is that we nearly missed the ship. We arrived at 8:28pm for an 8:30pm departure. But we thought we had plenty of time and only returned “early” because we wanted Easter dinner. Yikes! All’s well that ends well?
  • Panama Canal. This was a “bucket list” item for both of us and it didn’t disappoint. Fascinating engineering. The weather wasn’t great – light rain – but it didn’t spoil the experience. I will include our shopping experience in Colon, Panama, too. Cheap, cheap, cheap. We still marvel at the pair of insulated cups with Bluetooth speakers that we bought for $5.50 each. We do love a bargain.
  • San Jose, Guatemala. This wasn’t an excursion; it was just us getting a taxi into town and wandering about. We managed to get some local currency, found some clothes for Marlene, got a free radish and cake and Marlene was given a pair of earrings by a shopkeeper. The hustle and bustle and general chaos of the city was memorable.
  • Los Angeles. We did two tourist things – visited the Walk of Fame in Hollywood and the Santa Monica Pier – and both were fun. But the things that made the day truly memorable were meeting a young couple at the Taco Bell Cantina (and having a $5 margarita) and traveling on public transit all day for a grand total of $9. A triumph of public transportation!
  • Astoria OR. This was a minor port but was memorable for us because we had lunch with my sister there. And she took us to the Astoria Tower. A nice day with family.
  • Thunderbird Falls. This “minor” attraction turned out to be far more fulfilling than the wasted trip to Denali. A nice hike which produced some beautiful photos.
  • The 4th State Brewery in Anchorage. Good beer, good food, lively atmosphere and a water view. Very, very nice.
  • The excursion in Costa Rica. This was a private excursion to see the countryside. It did show us the country but the real highlight was the beers (3 at 24 oz, 1 at 12 oz) with the guide and two other passengers at the end of the excursion. As Dean, my drinking buddy would say, “brilliant!” I was lucky to find my way back to the ship
  • Jewelry. Marlene left her rings at home. Accidentally, she said. But it gave her an excuse to find some rings – and earrings and a bracelet – on shore. She scored some good deals on sterling jewelry.
  • The Rockaway Duo. I mention this couple above, but we wouldn’t have danced much for a month had they not been on the ship. A lovely couple and a great voice on her. Thanks, guys!

The other ports – Acapulco, Ketchikan and Skagway – were not disappointing but were not very memorable.

Lowlights:

  • The Wingate by Wyndham Hotel in Anchorage. This hotel was undergoing extensive renovations while we were there. It was both annoying and dangerous. The management should have either closed the hotel or done the renovations one wing or floor at a time. Doing everything all at once made for a miserable hotel experience.
  • Denali. I was really hoping to see the tallest mountain in North America, but the trip was wasted. Too cloudy and too foggy. And the road there was not interesting at all. We should have spent the day in Anchorage.
  • Juneau. The town was interesting but the weather was miserable. We got very chilled, as did many other passengers on the ship. There were a lot of people with colds after we left Juneau.
  • The Hubbard Glacier. Rather than transit it, close up, we did a “360 turn” several miles away. We really didn’t get to see it at all.
  • The lack of an “elegant night.” Marlene loves to dress up and some of her favorite nights on a Carnival cruise are the elegant nights. She packed several gowns that went unworn.

Bottom line: not a perfect trip by any means, but a memorable one.

Categories: Commentary, Cruise, Food, NCL2 | Leave a comment

NCL2 Days 27-29: Anchorage AK

We stayed at the Wingate by Wyndham in Anchorage for 3 nights. The construction, that was well underway when we arrived, got progressively worse each day. I am baffled why the hotel management thought it was acceptable to undertake that scale of renovations without disclosing the situation when someone booked a room. And why significant discounts for the mess were not offered.

By the end of the third day the condition of the floor in the lobby and breakfast areas was so deplorable that it was a significant safety hazard. I think a building inspector, had he been invited to view the property, would have condemned it. But no building inspector was involved because, I believe, no permits were pulled to do this work. Unconscienable.

On the third day the laundry room was out of commission and there was no ice anywhere in the hotel. Awful. Dust everywhere. Not pleasant at all. But the bedroom was okay, which made it all tolerable.

Day 27

Me and my chowder

We started the day with breakfast in the dusty breakfast room at the hotel, then I went to the room to blog and edit photos while Marlene went off the explore Anchorage on foot. We tried, and failed, to meet up for lunch. I took a nap. We met for dinner at 49th State Brewing. I had some very good seafood chowder and a flight of craft beers – three lagers and a pilsner. I took home a quart of the smoky lager. Very good.

We played cards that night.

Day 28

We had met a couple from England who expressed an interest in driving up to see Denali with us, but she was not feeling well that morning so after breakfast Marlene and I headed out alone.

We should have stayed home, too. The trip was pretty much a complete waste of time. The road north, which I expected to be mountainous and lined with places for good photos, was straight, flat and not interesting at all. The day was gray with just a few breaks of sun and the mountains were fogged in. We stopped in Talkeetna, which was smaller and more rustic than I expected. We didn’t even go into any of the shops. And we had to backtrack to get to the Denali viewing spots – I thought we would be able to drive through – so that was 30 wasted miles.

But Marlene took the opportunity to make a snowball and throw it at me. And later we stopped on a bridge over a river that still had big chunks of ice.

When we finally got to the Denali viewing spots they were closed. And Denali was nowhere in sight. We later found that there is a “30% Club” – only about 30% of the tourists who trek to Denali actually see it.

Disappointing.

The sun did break out as we returned to Anchorage, so we got some nice photos of the mountains that ring the city.

Mountains near Anchorage
More mountains

We “dined” on leftovers in our hotel room, then played cards.

Day 29

We had breakfast in the dusty breakfast room, then checked out of the hotel. Good riddance.

We went next door to the Ulu knife factory and bought a commemorative knife, engraved with our names and the date. Then we drove to Thunderbird Falls for a 1-mile “mostly flat” hike to see the falls.

Mostly flat, my ass. While not as arduous at Mount Mondadnock, it wasn’t a piece of cake. But worth it. We got some nice photos on the mile-long hike to the viewing platform.

The hike was along the rim of a deep gorge. At many points there were signs warning of sharp cliffs and stay away! So of course each warning sign had well-worn paths where hikers had walked to the edge to see how steep the cliffs were.

There was one branch off the path to the viewing platform, labeled “brook trail.” It led down the gorge to the Eklutna River. I was not eager to go down a fairly steep trail because I would just have to climb up again. But Marlene insisted. So down we went.

The river was lined with ice and we had to walk on some of that ice – and slippery rocks – to get to where we could view the waterfall. But Marlene was determined, so we carefully navigated the path. And were rewarded with some very nice photos.

Our postcard shot of the falls

After the falls we visited the Salvation Army thrift store and Marlene found some treasures. I wasn’t happy about that as I knew we were either at our 50-pound luggage limit or possibly over. So we went to the post office to weigh the luggage. 50 lbs for mine, 54 lbs for hers. Without the extra stuff added.

We drove to Earthquake Park, a city park that commemorates the Good Friday earthquake of 1964. We repacked the bags in the parking lot, shifting some heavy items into our backpacks. Then we walked around the park which is built on a mile-long section of bluff that collapsed into the sea when the earthquake hit. Dozens of people died there. Kind of scary knowing that an earthquake can change a landscape so dramatically.

We visited the 49th State Brewery a second time. We shared some nachos and I had a pint of the Most Coast Pilsner, followed by a pint of the Amber Borealis. Both delicious.

Our final trip out of the city was a drive about 20 miles south, to get a shot of the mountains down there.

South of Anchorage, on the banks of the Knik Arm

Then to the airport, getting gas along the way.

Dropping off the car was easy, but we made getting to the gate difficult. First Marlene forgot her phone in the car and had to go get it. Then I got pulled aside at security because I had forgotten that we had put two cans of soda in the backpack. And Marlene forgot her insulated cup and had to go back for that, going through security a second time. But we finally made it to the gate. And waited nearly 3 hours.

We were very tired and we both napped a bit.

The 3.5 hour flight to Seattle was bumpy, which Marlene didn’t like at all. The hour in Seattle-Tacoma airport was spent finding the gate, which was moved to an entirely different terminal. We walked, I estimate, nearly a mile getting to our connecting flight to Miami. That 6 hour flight was uneventful. We played cards.

We waited for a few minutes in Miami for the arrival of Marlene’s brother. We stopped for dinner on the way back to his place – my treat. Marlene’s dog, Becky, was very happy to see us.

We were very tired. That’s what happens when a vacation lasts 30 days.

Categories: AK, Family, FL, Food, NCL2 | Leave a comment

NCL2 Day 26: Whittier and Anchorage AK

The Jade in Whittier

This was the last day of our 25-night cruise. The Norwegian Jade docked in Whittier AK at 7am and we were off the ship by 8am. The “long walk” to the bus was less than a quarter mile (Marlene thinks it was more, I think it was less) and the buses were waiting to take us to the airport. There is a one-way tunnel near the port which is the only way in or out of Whittier. It changes direction every 30 minutes. We were fortunate to catch it at the right time and had to wait only a few minutes to get out of the port.

I guess we were also fortunate that it was merely cloudy; Whitter gets about 200 inches of rain each year.

The 63-mile ride into Anchorage was scenic, but it is difficult taking photos through the dirty window of a moving bus.

We couldn’t unload at the airport until the luggage truck finished unloading so we took a brief detour through downtown Anchorage. Not a bad-looking medium-sized city (population about 600,000).

We were happy to have our luggage with us as the line to retrieve luggage was very long. We ran into a couple of folks from the ship and chatted a while before heading to the Avis car rental counter. They didn’t have a compact car available, but gave us a Toyota Cross (aka RAV4) for the same price. We drove to the hotel (Wingate by Marriott) and were told that our room wasn’t ready. So we walked next door to the Ulu knife factory and got a nice personalized tour of this small factory.

The hotel is undergoing extensive renovations – a fact that was not disclosed to me when I booked it. The hallways were a mess. And shortly after we arrived workmen started removing the floor tiles in the breakfast area. Dust everywhere. Not pleasant. We considered moving to another hotel but there aren’t many affordable (and available) ones in Anchorage. And our room, though basic, is updated, clean and has new mattresses. And a view of the dumpster.

It had no table or chair, but they were delivered promptly when we requested them.

We walked to downtown, did a little window shopping and found a nice craft brewery/restaurant that we will try during our stay.

The sun sets late here – it was still pretty light at 10pm.

I will provide the cruise wrapup next. Also what we did on our nearly 4 full days in Anchorage.

Categories: AK, Cruise, Hotels, NCL2 | Leave a comment

NCL2 Day 25: At sea

Hubbard Glacier from a distance

This day was billed as a “glacier transit” day – a slow cruise near the Hubbard Glacier. Like much of this cruise itinerary, the plan changed. Rather than cruising near the glacier – which is 7 miles long where it meets the sea – we stopped several miles away and did a “360 turn” (a complete rotation of the ship), then left. The initial reason given was that ice conditions didn’t allow us to approach any closer. But I think the real reason was that the late departure from Skagway forced the captain to cut the slow transit.

Add loss of a glacier transit to the loss of the three ports (Nicaragua, Colon Columbia and Cabo San Lucas Mexico). Many passengers are feeling they are victims of a “bait-and-switch” scam. I don’t feel that way, but I am pretty disappointed.

As this was the last full cruise day, we passed out some gratuities to the crew members that stood out: Marly the “washy washy” girl and the coffee trio, Paul Galvin and Jeanette. We also sought out some special passengers and got contact information for a few.

After dinner we paid (literally) a final visit to the casino and cashed out what little remained in our accounts. Then we sat for the last show which was a second helping of Evolution: Motown. Very good.

We packed our suitcases – which took about an hour – then set the alarm for 5:30am and went to bed.

Categories: AK, Cruise, NCL2, Pacific Ocean | Leave a comment