Monday was beautiful, though a bit coolish, in Chattanooga. I was feeling a bit sniffly, but decided to ignore my stuffy nose and take advantage of the clear skies to get some photos at Chickamauga National Military Park and Lookout Mountain, sites of two very significant Civil War battles. Significant for the outcome of the war and very significant to the 10,000 men who died there.
The Chickamauga battlefield is huge – larger than Gettysburg – and the battle of Chickamauga is second only to Gettysburg in the number of casualties (about 35,000). But the battlefield is not nearly as dramatic as Gettysburg, consisting mostly of woods and fields on relatively flat terrain. No Little Round Top, no Devil’s Den, no Missionary Ridge. But it is scenic in its own way and was definitely worth a visit.
I started at the Visitor’s Center and viewed a 26-minute film that put the battle into context for me. It came just a few months after Gettysburg and was the Confederacy’s last best chance to regain control of the war. The Battle of Chickamauga was, technically, a Confederate victory, but not a conclusive one. Both sides were battered and the Union forces were able to withdraw to Chattanooga. The Confederates laid siege to Chattanooga but were unable to roust the Union army who retained control of this vital railroad crossroads. Ultimately, Ulysses S. Grant took control of the Union army there and was able to break the siege with battles on Lookout Mountain and Missionary Ridge. That opened the way for Sherman’s march to the sea which broke the back of the Confederacy.
As at Gettysburg, the battlefield is sprinkled with monuments to individual brigades that were significant in the battle. There are also many permanent markers that describe the action that took place at that point. It is hard now – particularly on a bright, calm, sunny day – to imagine the carnage that took place on that battlefield over 150 years ago.
The Battle on Lookout Mountain became known as “The Battle Above the Clouds” because it occurred high up on Lookout Mountain, perhaps some 400 to 500 feet above Chattanooga. The promontory overlooking Chattanooga is now Point Park and is popular more for the vistas than the history. It is easy to see how an army that controlled this mountain could control Chattanooga.
It was a good day of tourism, but I didn’t see Chattanooga itself. I will have to leave that for another trip.