Three days in Portsmouth NH

Departing The Hotel Portsmouth
The patio

Ooma treated me to three nights at The Hotel Portsmouth – a “boutique” hotel in Portsmouth NH. It is a lovely old building with updated rooms and all the amenities that one would expect from a superior hotel – tile shower, newer fixtures, a large flat-screen TV and a very comfortable king-size bed. Our room also had something I wouldn’t expect – two very comfortable chairs (perfect for reading). The common area fixtures – most notably the smoky glass chandaliers, the ornate oak staircase and the very nice back patio – were also features that you won’t find in most fine hotels.

The accomodations came with daily breakfast featuring hardboiled eggs, English muffins and breads for toasting, fruit cups and other fruits, parfait, overnight oats and a variety of cereals including a very tasty granola. And, of course, coffee and tea.

Smoky glass chandalier

The other benefit… location. We could walk to most anyplace in Portsmouth. And we did, going to Prescott Park, lunch at Moe’s, River House and 5 Thai Bistro and dinners at Cafe Mediteraneo and Cure. We also dined at Robert’s Maine Grill, but that was in Kittery ME and we drove to that one. It was three days of very fine dining, They were all excellent. It is hard to find a bad meal in Portsmouth.

Most of this dining was done in the congenial company of some of Ooma’s oldest and dearest friends – Sharon, Nancy, Stella, Merrill and Russell. Meeting Ooma’s dearest friends for the first time could have been stressful, but it wasn’t. They were all charming and very accepting of me. I can see why Ooma values them so highly.

Hotel staircase
Me and my steamed lobster

Ooma and I, while traveling, usually share an entree as we often have no way to store leftovers. And we dine so well that we have no appetite for them. For the meal at Cafe Mediterraneo we shared a terrific osso bucco dish, with mashed potatos and summer vegetables, and at Cure shared some lamb. But for our final dinner, at Robert’s Maine Grill, we each had our own lobster entree – steamed lobster for me and Lobster Thermidore for Ooma. They were terrific. Expensive, but worth it. A fine and fitting end to our Portsmouth vacation-within-a-vacation.

I have to gush a bit about Prescott Park. We went there right after arriving, to eat our Moe’s Italian sandwiches (which were also delicious). I had been to that park before, years ago, to attend an outdoor play. I remembered it as being a very nice urban park. But Ooma showed me the gardens which were, in a word, spectacular. Portmouth has much more to offer than just this one park, but it justifies a visit all on its own.

On our way home we took a small detour to visit York ME. We stopped by the Cape Neddick Light (aka Nubble Light), one of the most popular tourist attractions on the coast of Maine. Then we had a good, old-fashioned ice cream soda at The Goldenrod, a long-time fixture in York. I don’t think I have had an ice cream soda in over 40 years and this was a good one.

Cape Neddick Light
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Family time in CT

On Saturday Ooma and I traveled to CT (just an hour from Worcester) to visit with Ooma’s son Jeffrey, his wife Sarah and their family. I was eager to meet the people that I had heard so much about. I was not disappointed. It was a wonderful day – in perfect weather – with a wonderful family.

Jeffrey (feeding Janson), Sarah and Sophia Bella
Sophia putting on a flag show

Jeffrey cooked bratwurst and hot dogs for us on arrival and tacos before departure, so we were well fed. We also got a tour of their home – an 18th-century gem with lots of nooks and crannies, which I love – and lots of time to get to know the kids. It was Ooma’s introduction to the newborn and a chance to marvel at how much the other 3 had grown since her last visit. The two youngest ones were not yet old enough to talk, but the two oldest girls had plenty to say. And do.

Sophia Bella, who has a late fall birthday, decided that she wanted a summer birthday instead, so we had an “Alice in Wonderland” birthday for her.

I enjoyed every minute. Thank you, Jeffrey and Sarah, for making me feel so welcome. And thank you, Sophia Bella and Farren, for keeping me entertained.

Ooma would like me to point out that the Cheetos gift to Dennis was a request from his parents – his favorite “treat” food, apparently.

Categories: CT, Family, Places | 1 Comment

“Rogue Lawyer” by John Grisham

Copyright 2015 by Belfry Holdings, Inc. Published by Dell Books, an imprint of Random House, New York.

John Grisham sure knows how to write. His books are always of the “can’t put it down” variety.

This one is described as the “first in the Rogue Lawyer series.” It appears to be a series of one at this point, but I can see why this could be a series.

The “rogue lawyer” is Sebastian Rudd, a maverick defense attorney who specializes in defending the indefensible – often at the risk of angering the police and the community. His office has been firebombed and his life has been threatened. He works out of a converted van. His chauffeur / bodyguard / paralegal is a black ex-con appropriately named Partner. He has a bitchy lesbian ex-wife and a son that he sees infrequently. He loves mixed martial arts “cage fights” – and financially backs a young fighter.

Rudd has several clients in this one, including the fighter he is backing who is arrested for going beserk and killing the referee, in the cage. He also takes on the police department who kill a woman in a botched SWAT raid. And a scumbag guy who is probably a serial killer or at least a serial kidnapper. Oh – and a drug lord on death row.

It is a busy life.

Grisham writes this story in the first person, using short sentences and minimal dialog. It is almost like you are in Rudd’s head, thinking what he is thinking. It is a different style from his other books, but an effective one for telling the story of the rogue lawyer.

9 out of 10.

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“Blue Labyrinth” by Douglas Preston and Lincoln Child

Copyright 2014 by Splendide Mendax Inc. and Lincoln Child. Published by Grand Central Publishing, New York.,

This is the 14th book in the series of Preston and Child books that feature, as the protagonist, Aloysius Pendergast, the rich FBI agent extraordinaire, and the sixth that I have read. This one immediately succedes White Fire. As with many of the other books in the series, he is assisted in his efforts by Vincent D’Agosta, an NYPD detective, friend and botanist Margo Green and his ward, Constance Greene. His bodyguard and chauffeur, Proctor, is injured in a car crash early on and does not figure prominently in the plot.

The plot. SPOILER ALERT: the events begin when the corpse of his estranged son, Alban, shows up on the doorstep of his Riverside Drive mansion. The rest of the book is a search for Alban’s killer and a motive for dumping him on Pendergast’s doorstep. It takes Aloysius to California and Brazil, but much of the action occurs in New York City – mostly at the Museum of Natural History and the Brooklyn Botanical Garden. The plot is, as with all of the Preston and Child plots, ridiculous. But the book is also great fun to read and it moves quickly.

8 out of 10.

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A fun night at the WooSox game

I hoped that I could get Ooma to a WooSox game while we were in Worcester as I think that is one of the summer highlights of the city. But COVID intervened. I then expected to be accompanied by Ray and Kim, with an extra ticket to be disposed of. But Kim broke her foot a couple of days before the game. Down to Ray and me and *2* tickets to repurpose. Solution: invite old buddy Mike. And he had a neighbor who was interested. Problem solved.

We – Ray and I – planned to meet up with Mike and Joe at The Banner, a pub not far from Polar Park. But as Ray and I were walking to the pub I got a text message from Mike. He just realized that the game was for Thursday, not Friday as he thought. He could still make it but would be late.

The Banner was crowded so Ray and I moved down to the Smokestack Urban BBQ restaurant (since closed). We got a table and had a decent meal. We were unable to meet up with Mike and Joe before the game, but they did make it to the stadium in time for the first pitch.

One final fly in this ointment: I forgot that I had my Swiss army knife in my pocket. I knew it would be confiscated at the stadium, so I had to seek out a hiding place. I found an orange construction cone and dropped the knife under it. We then were able to enter the stadium without anything being confiscated.

The game turned out to be rather historic. Michael Wacha, a Red Sox pitcher who had been out for several months with an injury, made his first rehab start that night. He mowed down the opposition, going nearly 5 hitless innings while the WooSox built an 8-0 lead. Two other pitchers completed the game, also allowing no hits. My first ever no hitter! And the first no-hitter ever at Polar Park. Damn exciting. The final out was a diving catch of a line drive by the left fielder – a fitting end to a wonderful game, won by the WooSox 12-0. To say that the crowd went home happy would be an understatement.

And my knife was still under the cone.

Categories: MA, Places, Sports | 2 Comments

“Cockroaches” by Jo Nesbo

Copyright 1998 by Jo Nesbo. Translation copyright 2013 by Dan Bartlett. Published by Vintage Books, a division of Random House, Inc, New York.

A (faint) silver lining to a miserable day in 2 ERs was that I read the last 200 pages of this book.

This is the second of a series of books by Nesbo featuring Harry Hole, a Norwegian detective with a severe substance dependency problem. It is the first Nesbo book I have ever read and I was pretty favorably impressed. I will read more if they come my way.

In this book Hole is tapped to investigate, pretty much by himself and very much on the DL, the murder of the Norwegian ambassador to Thailand who was found with a knife in his back in a seedy Bankok brothel. This seemingly senseless murder takes Hole down (dare I say it?) a rabbithole of perversion and corruption. The plot has more than the usual number of twists and turns and the body count climbs as the story progresses. But the plot is plausible and the denouement is quite satisfying.

My one complaint is that Nesbo is fond of long, complex dialog where he fails to note who is saying what. I often had to go back to the start of the sequence and carefully re-read it to get a full understanding.

7 out of 10.

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A miserable, unproductive day in 2 ERs

As mentioned previously, Ooma contracted, for the third time, COVID-19 sometime during our 4 days in VA. Two days ago she tested negative on a home test. Yesterday, because she was still feeling short of breath, she decided she would like an X-ray of her lungs, to see if she might have pneumonia. So at 10am we headed to UMASS Memorial Medical Center, University Canvas, to try to get an X-ray. She had tried to get an X-ray at an urgent care facility but they were totally unresponsive (how does “urgent” square with “unresponsive”?). After waiting nearly 6 hours, we left without the X-ray. On the way out we learned that one of the possible reasons for the delay was that Ooma had tested positive for COVID-19 during the intake screening, which meant that a portable X-ray machine would have to be used. No one told her that and no one told her to take any special precautions while waiting, which we found puzzling. Or maddening.

We went home, had dinner and a nap and, at 8pm, went to UMASS Memorial Hospital, the older UMASS facility in Worcester. This time, after a wait of “only” 3 hours, she got the desired X-ray. But it took another 2 hours to get the results which were, sadly, not terribly enlightening: she has COVID, her lungs are fine, she just needs to rest. No cause for her distressing shortness of breath.

After this frustrating and depressing day, her response was “this is the kind of medical care you get at one of the best hospitals in Massachusetts?” She thought she would have learned more in Florida.

I found it curious that I was asked to leave the waiting room at Memorial because I had been in contact with Ooma, who had tested positive (I waited in the car). No one asked me to leave the waiting room at University. This kind of inconsistent protocol simply highlights the fact that the medical profession, after two years of pandemic, still has no clear idea of how to deal with COVID-19 patients.

Frustrating. And a bit disturbing. And a miserable, unproductive day in Worcester.

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TN8 wrapup

The 8th trip north (TN8) is in the books, so it is time to do the wrapup.

By the numbers:

  • 6 hops, 1,615 route miles (269 miles per hop).
  • 13 nights (9 in hotels), $1,539 in hotel charges ($171 per night).
  • 1,844 total driving miles, 56.4 gallons of gas (32.7 miles per gallon).
  • $227.78 in fuel costs ($4.04 per gallon).

The hotel costs were more than I originally budgeted – I was planning on $130 per night – but both New York City and Charleston were very expensive. I asked Ooma to find the hotels and she found places that were very nice. Much nicer than the rattraps that I might have booked.

The 32.7 mpg wasn’t bad but would have been higher but for the the driving tour of NYC and the horrendous exit from the city on Hop 6. Also, while $4.04 per gallon wasn’t bad at a time when regular gas was averaging about $4.30, I probably could have slipped in under $4 if I had stopped for the last refueling at Costco in Miford CT ($3.99 there), but I skipped that because of the heavy traffic.

Highlights:

  • My first visit with Jett’s boys and their families since her funeral. It was great to see them all again. And their warm welcome of Ooma made me love them all the more.
  • Sharing NYC and Charleston with Ooma, who had never been to either place. She loved both, as I knew she would.
  • St Marys GA, a beautiful little town.

Lowlights:

  • Ooma’s COVID illness (her third!). It changed our NYC plans and resulted in canceling planned visits with 2 old friends. I don’t like to see her sick any more than she likes being sick. Fortunately, I did not catch it. I am sure that my bout with COVID after July 4 was responsible for that. It would have been difficult keeping to our planned itinerary if I had been ill too. So while it spoiled a few things, we were still able to enjoy New York. And we made it to Worcester right on schedule. Strange as it sounds, I am grateful now that I caught COVID before the start of the TN8.
  • Devin’s boat breakdown. A lovely day in the water in VA was tainted by the failure of the boat to start after a lovely lunch. I am sure Devin was more upset than I was and the day was still very nice, but I hate when a brand new boat fails for no good reason.
  • The horrendous traffic leaving New York on Hop 6. I can’t recall having worse traffic in all of my previous travels.

Planned versus actual routes:

Pretty close. No major diversions. The stop in New Salem was added.

Now a month in Worcester. It will be busy but we won’t be living out of suitcases. The 8th trip south (TS8) will start just before Labor Day. I will give a preview of that in a couple of weeks.

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TN8 Hop 6: New York NY to Worcester MA

TN8 Hop 6

250 miles via I-278, Hutchinson Parkway/Merritt Parkway, US 7, I-95, I-91, I-291, local streets to US 202 and MA 122 with a refueling stop and a stop in New Salem MA to introduce Ooma to Jett’s brother Ray and his wife Kim. Cumulative TN8 route miles: 1615. Cumulative car miles: 1844. Car miles since the end of Hop 5: 389. The extra car miles were due mostly to the Manhattan driving tour and the trip to the Staten Island ferry terminal.

We left the hotel at 11:15am and really thought we would get to our meet-and-greet stop in New Salem by 3:30pm. After all, we hadn’t encountered any significant traffic delays in our Thursday tour of Manhattan so why would it be any worse on a weekend? Well, I don’t know why it was so bad, but the first 70 miles of this hop were among the worst I have ever experienced, taking over 3 hours (average speed: 22 mph) and we didn’t reach New Salem until 5:15pm, nearly 2 hours later than we expected. Heavy, heavy traffic all through New York and into Connecticut. It didn’t lighten much at all until we got on I-91 heading into Hartford. Miserable.

The visit in New Salem was socially-distanced, so no hugging or kissing. Ooma was still feeling some lingering effects of COVID. When we left we still had a 70-minute journey to our final destination in Worcester – Ray and Kim’s house. We arrived at dusk and did as little as possible when we finally arrived – we will clean out the car and set up for 4 weeks in Worcester on Sunday. Ooma was exhausted and headed straight to bed.

I will do the TN8 wrapup next.

Categories: CT, MA, NY, Places, Routes, TN8 | Leave a comment

4 nights, 3 days in Staten Island

Our original plan for our visit to New York City (a place that Ooma has never visited) called for 2 days touring Manhattan via the Big Red Bus hop-on, hop-off routes and one day driving to Wave Hill and Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. But then, as mentioned previously, Ooma came down with COVID-19. For the THIRD time (does Guiness have a category for this?). She had a fever of 102 Tuesday morning and we left VA as quickly as possible. She was quite sick all day Tuesday and we quarantined in our Staten Island hotel room all day Wednesday. She felt a bit better Thursday and we took a driving tour of Manhattan. On Friday she was well on her way to recovery – no fever at all and only a few aches. She relapsed a bit late Friday but I trust that she will be much better Saturday.

First, let me tell you my impression of Staten Island (a place I have traveled through but never stayed in). I like it. It is more suburban than Queens, Brooklyn or the Bronx and more laid-back than other places within an hour of Manhattan, such as Jersey City, Westchester County or Greenwich CT. We are really amazed that a place like this exists just a 30-minute ferry ride from lower Manhattan. If I were to live in NYC (not likely) I think this is where I would look.

Inside Pizza D’Oro

We ate in our hotel room all four days. I picked up some Panera chicken noodle soup for Ooma Tuesday night (I had a sub), then we did takeout pizza from Pizza D’Oro on Wednesday. It got great reviews and was obviously a wildly popular place – I had to wait an hour for my pizza and they actually ran out of dough after making mine – but we thought it was only mediocre. Thursday night was 494 Chicken which Ooma really liked, but I thought it was overcooked and overpriced. Friday night was Chinese from Oriental Plaza. Again, good reviews but mediocre (or less) food. I got tempura as an appetizer and it was soggy. Never had soggy tempura before. Never want it again.

So I can’t say that Staten Island is a gourmet paradise.

NYC driving tour

One highlight of our stay was the driving tour of Manhattan. Google estimated the tour would take less than 3 hours but I thought it would be closer to 4. It was actually almost 5. But it was a (mostly) pleasant trip – as pleasant as driving in Manhattan gets. I was able to give Ooma a taste of the city and she liked it very much. It was over 80 miles of city driving, which will kill my overall TN8 mileage, I suppose, and God knows how much I racked up in bridge tolls – possibly as much as $50 – but it was worth it. It was great to get Ooma out of the medical ward for an afternoon and take her to a place she has never been.

The photos from this tour were taken by Ooma, from the car – mostly while in motion – and through the windshield, so they are fairly low-quality. But she got some very nice bridge shots.

She got a few nice shots of the city, too, but it is impossible to get shots of tall buildings from a car at street level.

Brownstones on 35th St
Washington Square

I had actually bought 2 2-day tickets for the Big Red Bus, at a cost of $160. I tried to get a refund but failed. Ooma, not to be deterred, took up the challenge and got the refund. She is a woman of many talents.

Manhattan from Staten Island
One of the Staten Island ferries

A second highlight was a visit to the Staten Island Ferry. We didn’t actually go aboard, but was saw the ferry and the waiting room and confirmed that the ferry is, indeed, free. If Ooma had been 100% healthy we would have gone to Manhattan, looked around a bit and returned, but in the interest of the public health we passed. We also confirmed that parking at the ferry for a day trip was shockingly inexpensive – $10 for 5 hours. That is like parking in Ft Myers. I really expected that it would cost $30 or more to park at the ferry.

The sad Snug Harbor Botanical Garden

I expected that a third highlight would be the Snug Harbor Botanical Garden. There is a wide variety of attractions at this location, including the Staten Island Museum and the Children’s Museum, but we only wanted to visit the botanical garden. Boy, were we disappointed! It looked like it had been abandoned. Overgrown, unkempt. It looked like it had been a lovely place 10 years ago, but it is a mess now. It reminded me of The Secret Garden before the kids found the key.

On Saturday we planned to stop by for lunch with Alice, my high school civics teacher, on our way to Massachusetts. But Ooma’s COVID test still showed positive (mine still showed negative), so we cancelled that stop.

Not quite the trip to New York City that we had planned.

Our hotel in Staten Island was the Fairfield Inn. Adequate but not spectacular. The breakfast was free, but not as good as at some of the other hotels. And no Keurig, which made getting morning coffee a bit more difficult. Our view was a CubeSmart storage building. The stuff of dreams, right?

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