TN8 Hop 4: Rocky Mount NC to Dumfries VA

TN8 Hop 4

208 miles via US 64, I-95 and VA 234 with a diversion at the start to get the car washed and a brief lunch break. Cumulative car miles: 1134. There were no extra car miles as this was a simple overnight stop – we parked, we slept, we left. We had dinner in the hotel.

This was a trivial hop in terms of navigation as it was almost entirely on I-95 and I have traveled the route many times before. I did have to use the GPS to locate my destination – my stepson’s house.

The weather was rain-free but very hot, near 100 degrees. But the A/C worked so no problem. We finished the audiobook – The Handmaid’s Tale – before we arrived at our destination.

Easy peasy.

Our hotel for the night was the Holiday Inn in Rocky Mount. It was more than adequate and the dinner was very good.

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TN8 Hop 3: Charleston SC to Rocky Mount NC

290 miles via I-526 (north and west of Charleston), I-26, SC 52, some county roads, SC 527, I-95 and US 64. 325 car miles since the end of Hop 2. Cumulative car miles: 926. The extra miles were due to our 2 sightseeing trips into Charleston.

TN8 Hop 3

We stopped at South of the Border to acquire some small gifts and for lunch just north of the North Carolina border.

There were a few sprinkles and, as always, traffic was heavy on I-95. But I avoided quite a few miles on I-95 by taking SC 52 and SC 527. This cut off about 11 miles from the fastest (I-95) route but was about 15 minutes slower. A good tradeoff, I think, as I don’t much like I-95 and traffic on this route was relatively light.

We stayed two nights at the Holiday Inn Express in Charleston. This one was older and not as nice as the one in Kingsland. And no goodie bag! (The clerk said “we aren’t allowed to give them out.” Yeah.) The room was dirtier and the staff was less helpful. On the positive side, the cable channel selection was much better (over 50 channels) and the free breakfast was every bit as good.

Our dinner the second night was at Tbonz, a steak joint only about 5 miles from the hotel. Ooma and I split a ribeye – we find that splitting a meal is a great way to avoid both leftovers and weight gain (a potential problem for me but not for Ooma). The ribeye and the service were both excellent.

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“Finding My Father’s War” by Walter J. Eldridge

Copyright 2004 by Walter J Eldridge. Published by PageFree Publishing, Inc, Oswego MI.

Disclaimer: the author is a fraternity brother.

I have had this book in my to-be-read pile for over a year and, frankly, was dreading it a bit. I thought it would be a dry recounting of World War II history. Instead it turned out to be the a gripping, humanizing story of a chemical mortar battalion that was instrumental in winning the war.

To be honest, I had no idea that a “chemical warfare battalion” even existed in World War II. I had the mistaken impression that all kinds of chemical warfare had been banned after World War I. While certain kinds of chemicals – mustard gas, nerve gas, etc – had indeed been banned, use of incendiary chemicals like white phosphorus had not. A lot of white phosphorus mortars – useful as anti-personnel weapons and to lay down smoke screens – were used in the second World War. These mortars were highly accurate and became valued support weapons for infantry in Italy, France and Germany.

The technology of the chemical mortars and its successes and failures were fascinating (e.g., some men were killed, late in the war, due to “early detonations” – mortars exploding in the tube – due to cold and dampness). But the human stories – laboriously researched and documented by Eldridge – were even more fascinating. The action photo of the soldier taken a minute before a shell took his life. The two soldiers who reluctantly left their foxhole to move to a place deemed safer by their commanding officer, only to see their foxhole take a direct hit from a shell a few minutes later. The misery of a cold, wet winter in the mountains of Italy. The legendary direct hit – a mortar shell dropped through the open hatch of a German tank.

You can’t make this stuff up. This is the fog, the misery and the triumph of war recounted in a compelling way. More than any other book on war that I have ever read, this one put me there and made me understand the experience of the Greatest Generation.

8 out of 10.

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Charleston SC

Touring Charleston College in the pedicab
Caprese salad with shrimp
The Bookmaker

I have been to Charleston several times, but this was Ooma’s first visit. It was fun being able to share some of my favorite places in one of my favorite cities with my favorite woman. We dined at Tommy Condon’s (fried green tomatoes for an appetizer, heirloom tomato caprese salad with shrimp for Ooma and Bookmaker sandwich for me), walked the Battery, did a driving tour of some of its wonderful neighborhoods and strolled the City Market – all things I have done before. But yesterday we did something I have never done – took a 1-hour guided tour via pedicab. Being on a rickshaw allowed us to visit places that no tour bus can go and we saw some things I have never seen in Charleston. I think we agree that the pedicab was the highlight of the day.

Wedding Cake House
One of the many wonderful gates
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TN8 Hop 2: Kingsland GA to Charleston SC

TN8 Hop 2

199 miles via I-95 and US 17 with a lunch break at the Frampton Plantation Museum near the intersection of I-95 and US 17. 256 car miles. Cumulative miles: 601.

The extra miles were due to our sightseeing trip into St Marys.

This was an easy trip to navigate – didn’t even use the GPS. The traffic on I-95 was heavy in spots and there were a few sprinkles, but it was an easy hop overall.

We got a small lunch at McDonald’s when we got onto US 17 and ate it in the parking lot of the nearby Frampton Plantation House and Museum, which was also billed as a “visitor’s center”. We enjoyed the lovely grounds and the clean bathrooms.

Frampton Plantation grounds

Our home for two nights in Kingsland was the Holiday Inn Express. We like this brand. Clean rooms, free breakfast (very good) and a mini fridge and a Keurig coffee maker in every room. Lots of electrical outlets and USB ports, too. All at a reasonable price. Ooma is a Holiday Inn Rewards member so we got a little bag of goodies – 2 candy bars and a bag of Chex Mix – at checkin. Somewhere on this journey we will probably get a free night, too.

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St Marys GA

Crepe myrtles lining the walk

Our first stop on the TN8 was Kingsland GA. But the real attraction was the nearby town of St Marys – a town that Ooma and I visited today. This is a beautiful, quiet little town on the banks of the St Marys River and home to the Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base. Ooma has been here before and wanted to share the riverside park with me. It didn’t disappoint. It is a beautiful and meticulously-maintained spot of greenery, with 2-person swings facing the river and lovely crepe myrtle trees lining the walks. We spent an hour there, just enjoying the view and the quiet.

Dock on the St Marys River
Ooma on a swing

We also did a fair amount of shopping in the town. We found some lovely gifts and I bought a couple of books at a fine bookstore there. Didn’t need the books, but they aren’t perishable.

St Marys has some very attractive greenery. I found a wonderful lily – Ooma wasn’t sure of the variety – outside a shop in the downtown area.

Lily in St Marys

We also drove a few miles north, to Woodbine GA, as Ooma also had fond memories of this little town. Her memory may have been a bit faulty on this one as we found nothing to do there. We did find one interesting sign on a closed secondhand shop.

Then the skies opened and we headed back to the hotel.

Odd sign in Woodbine
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TN8 Hop 1: Ft Myers FL to Kingsland GA

TN8 Hop 1

345 miles via FL 80, I-75, FL 326, US 301 and I-95 with a refueling/lunch stop in Bushnell and a brief bio break at a rest area on I-75 north of Bushnell. Cumulative miles: 345.

The planned route had us taking I-10 into Jacksonville and I-295 north and west of Jacksonville, but Google decided, before we got to I-10, that continuing on US 301 was better.

The weather was nice and the traffic was mostly light, though it did get pretty heavy in spots. But, overall, a nice, carefree trip.

The car wasn’t packed as tightly as we had feared. But it would have been uncomfortably tight if we had brought Rusty along. Another good reason to leave him behind.

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“Florida Roadkill” by Tim Dorsey

Copyright 1999 by Tim Dorsey. Published by William Morrow, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers, New York.

About halfway through this book I thought “This is like reading an updated version of It;s a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World, but with everyone high on drugs and lots of killing – not just one guy ‘kicking the bucket.'” Then, some time later, I noticed a capsule review by the Denver Rocky Mountain News on the back of the book: “An updated version of It’s a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World told by an author who apparently learned his literary skills from Hunter S. Thompson.” I guess my thinking was pretty much in line with some others.

This is one crazy book and is just the first of a series – 25 at the present time – of crazy books featuring Serge Storms, a sociopathic killer who loves Florida and travels all around the state visiting historic sites and killing people in highly imaginative ways (e.g., injecting Fix-a-Flat into a victim’s lungs). It sounds grim, but the writing style is so light that it is like watching a crazed Harpo Marx dispatch people while playing the harp.

It is pointless to even attempt to summarize the plot. But let me list a few of the characters:

  • A drugged-up stripper
  • The CEO of a small fraudulent life-insurance company
  • A orthodontist who engages Serge and a buddy to cut off 3 fingers so he can cash in on a $5M policy on his hands
  • Two innocent buddies who get duped into absconding with that $5M
  • Three biker enforcers who, for a time, protect residents of a mobile home partk from their predatory developer
  • Four Ubekistanians who are the smallest known drug cartel in the world

All of these crazies come together, more or less, to make this book work. It is never dull. It may be hard to follow at times and difficult to believe most times. But never dull.

8 out of 10.

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Eighth trip north (TN8) preview – revised

TN8 plan – revised

Speaking of plans for the TN8, they have been significantly revised – not because of the unexpected arrival of COVID but because I have decided to leave Rusty behind, with my son. Planning hotel stays with a dog – especially an elderly, incontinent dog – became too difficult. So Ooma has graciously thrown out all of her previous bookings and has booked new stays in hotels where we don’t have to accommodate a dog. That will save a few bucks (though less than I will be giving to my son to care for Rusty) and also frees up some precious storage space in the Toyota.

Speaking of Toyota, it is ready to go. The body repair work was more that satisfactory – the cruise control is once again functional – and she is sporting two new Cooper tires on the front. A thorough mechanical inspection at the Toyota dealership revealed no other problems She got a new infusion of oil, too.

The most significant hotel switch is the one in New York City. Ooma found a hotel on Staten Island rather than in New Jersey. I have never stayed on Staten Island before and am looking forward to at least one trip on the Staten Island ferry.

Besides a whole new set of hotels, I have altered the plan to approach New York City via Pennsylvania rather than New Jersey (though, of course, I can’t avoid NJ entirely). I just don’t like the New Jersey Turnpike. Boring, busy and expensive. I would rather approach via the relatively bucolic I-80. But that is just the current plan and routes have a way of changing. We will see.

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A COVID surprise

See the previous post for my comment about how “I came down with a cold the next day but that didn’t spoil the fun.” To be cautious – mostly because Ooma has had COVID twice and is still suffering some of the effects of “long COVID” – I took a home antigen COVID test on Wednesday and it was negative. I was pretty sick Wednesday and really sick Thursday, with dry heaves and severe muscle aches. So on Friday I took another home test. POSITIVE. To double-check, I took a second home test. POSITIVE. Then, to triple-check, I drove to CVS and got a PCR test. The results were returned an hour ago. POSITIVE.

I guess I have COVID.

After two vaccinations and a booster, that is a surprise. And not a good one.

But the good news: I have fully recovered. Four days after feeling the first symptoms, I feel 100% normal again. The even better news: Ooma continues to be negative with no symptoms. But we haven’t seen each other, except at a distance, for 3 days. That part isn’t fun. ‘Cuz we seem to like each other.

I will be careful to avoid contact with anyone for a few more days, but will proceed with packing for the trip. I don’t believe that this will affect the plans for TN8.

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