MSC1 Day 3: Costa Maya, Mexico

Dangling natives

Dangling natives

The very long Costa Maya pier

The very long Costa Maya pier

Our first port of call was Costa Maya, Mexico. We have visited Costa Maya twice before and we still don’t like it. It is fine as a place to embark on an excursion, to a Mayan site or a snorkeling adventure, but it useless as a destination. There is nothing there but souvenir shops and some overpriced ($18 tacos) restaurants and bars.

And, as with just about every cruise port in the Caribbean, a Diamonds International store. If you want to drop a lot of money on a precious stone, you can do it here. Jett was jonesing for some tanzanite studs, so that was our first stop once we got ashore. That happened after a leisurely breakfast and a short ride on the trolley that traverses the very long pier (probably 300 yards). She found some nice stud earrings for under $300. Less than I won at the casino a day earlier, so I couldn’t get too upset.

While she was buying, her sisters and I watched the native Mayan tower performance. Four guys in native costumes climb to the top of a 75-foot tower, then descend slowly, dangling inverted from ropes. I don’t know how traditional this performance is – seems hard to believe that the Mayans did anything like this 700 years ago – but it is a captivating spectacle.

The only other activity of interest was consuming some very tasty mojitos with guacamole and chips. Expensive, but a pleasant time. We had a table near the pool in the middle of the port area, so it had a bit of a “beach bar” feel to it.

We had another fine dinner on board. I had a seafood cioppino entrée that was superb.

Guacamole and chips

Guacamole and chips

Port pool

Port pool

We did have a surprise though, delivered just before dinner – a gift of a bottle of champagne and a plate of chocolate-covered strawberries. Jett’s sisters got the same gift delivered to their cabin. The benefactors were two people that Jett and I had never heard of and were convinced that a mistake had been made. But Christine knew at least one of the names – the niece of her daughter-in-law. Furthermore, she knew why we had all received such a generous gift from a fairly distant (for us, anyway) relative: she held a high-level position at the corporate level at MSC and could easily request special treatment for guests on one of their ships. It turns out that this was just one of a series of gifts that we were to receive, the result being that we are now viewed as some kind of VIPs among the staff. Totally undeserved, of course, but nice nevertheless. It pays to have friends – even unknown ones – in high places.

Seafood ciappino

Seafood cioppino

Bottles of champagne, plates of strawberries

Bottles of champagne, plates of strawberries

Categories: Caribbean, Mexico, MSC1, Places | Leave a comment

MSC1 Day 2: At sea

First morning at sea

First morning at sea

The first day was spent entirely at sea, cruising along the north coast of Cuba. The weather was considerably warmer – in the high 70s – and mostly sunny, so it was a lovely, smooth day to cruise the Caribbean Sea. We slept in until after 8, then I embarked on a search for cappuccino. I knew there had to be some on board an Italian ship and I was right. But there was nothing on the ship map that said “Coffee Bar” or “Get Your Cappuccino Here”. So I went to to the reception area and corralled a staff person who was speaking to another staff person at the nearby bar. When I asked where I could find cappuccino he said, “Well, here, for one,” pointing at the bar. Sure enough, the bar had a cappuccino machine. I got a cup, along with a few pastries, and returned to the cabin.

Jett’s verdict: weak. And she was right. The cappuccino was very bland compared to other cappuccinos I have tasted, both on board ships and on land. Very disappointing. Fortunately, the free coffee available in the buffet restaurant is quite good. I made a second trip out to get a large cup of that brew, along with more pastries. That sated Jett.

Waiting for free jewelry

Waiting for free jewelry

Proof of winnings

Proof of winnings

I then spent some time exploring the ship, partly on my own and partly in the service of Jett. She sent me down to the “grand opening” of an EFFY jewelry section of the boutique which was handing out free pendants. More standing in line, but I am getting good at it by now. We napped and before dinner checked out the Irish pub, “Brass Anchor”. They have some decent ales and stouts and surprisingly inexpensive pub fare – a cheeseburger or a small fish and chips for $5 each. Very tasty.

My appeal for a later dinner seating was successful so we had some time to kill before 8:30. We decided to drop a few bucks in the casino – which, much to our surprise and Jett’s joy – has a smoking section. She lost a few dollars but I had my best casino day ever, winning over $570 – most of it coming on some “free spins” on a 50-cent machine.

We met for dinner at the Panorama Restaurant, at the stern of the ship. It was dark at 8:30pm, of course, so the panorama was a pitch black wall. But the food was quite good and the service was outstanding.

After two days on board the Meraviglia I can make some comments about it.  First, a few things that set it apart from every other ship we have been on:

  • The size.  With 4,500 passengers, this is nearly twice the size of the next largest ship we have sailed.  The is neither a plus nor a minus, just something that makes it different.  The only negative due to its size was the horribly long boarding line and for that I assign some of the fault to the Port of Miami.
  • The lack of an entertainment staff.  On every other cruise there was a cadre of entertainers who ran daily events and put on evening shows. On this ship the featured entertainment are two extra-cost Cirque de Soleil shows.  This ship has a cruise director, but no entertainers and no shows (at least no free ones).  The director’s job seems to be limited to making announcements.  I am sure he has many other responsibilities, but he is much less visible than cruise directors on other ships.
  • A dearth of elevators.  Or, more to the point, a dearth of elevator locations.  There are enough elevators, but they are clustered in just two locations: forward and midship.  There are no elevators in the stern half of the very large (and long) ship.  This became immediately apparent on the first day as we had to make the long trek to our cabin in the rear quarter.  Jett calls it the “death march”.  We have gotten used to it now, but I am still amazed that the designer didn’t see a need for aft elevators.
  • The plainness of the dining rooms.  Most of the other ships had grand dining halls with high ceilings and glitz.  Not much of that on the Meraviglia.  The dining rooms (4 of them) have low ceilings and are not grand at all.  They are pleasant, but the tables are more crowded together and it they feel more like family restaurants than grand venues.
  • There is a Japanese restaurant (extra cost, of course), complete with hibachi tables.
The arcade with pastel ceiling

The arcade with pastel ceiling

The arcade with classic ceiling

The arcade with classic ceiling

Looking down on the shopping arcade

Looking down on the shopping arcade

I am not sure any of this is bad, just different.  There is much to like about the Meraviglia.

  • The casino is bright and pleasant (and the slots are not stingy).  And it has a smoking section, a big plus in Jett’s view. It is also placed in the rear of the ship rather than in the middle which makes it less “in your face” than on other ships.
  • The shopping/dining arcade is spectacular, with an arched video ceiling which can be alternately classy and dazzling.
  • The Irish pub, “Brass Anchor,” is very nice with an excellent variety of draft beers and inexpensive food.
  • The buffet offers a wide variety of food, all of which has been very good to excellent.  The pizza is, in my opinion, some of the best I have had anywhere.  Who knew that Italians could make good pizza?
  • We have no need for them, but a large section of the ship is devoted to kid’s clubs.  This looks like it would be a good ship for young children.  Or teens.
  • There are bars galore, with different themes.  The overriding theme is white faux leather, which probably wouldn’t have been my first choice, but it is consistent, visually striking and very comfortable.
A fish tank on a ship

A fish tank on a ship

The Champagne Bar

The Champagne Bar

The Cirque de Soleil stage

The Cirque de Soleil stage

The Broadway Theater

The Broadway Theater

Shopping arcade

Shopping arcade

Chocolate shop

Chocolate shop

Categories: Caribbean, MSC1, Places | Leave a comment

MSC1 Day 1: Embarkation

Parked at the Crowne Plaza

Parked at the Crowne Plaza

The day began with final chores: finishing the packing, loading the bags into the truck, shutting windows, turning on the air conditioning, turning off the water and hot water heater, locking up. Then a short drive to the hotel to fetch Jett’s sisters and their luggage. It all fit. Barely. A stop at Starbucks then two boring hours on I-75 traversing “Alligator Alley” where no alligators are ever seen. The final 20 minutes was spent in a traffic mess at the Port of Miami, but the luggage and sisters were deposited at the ship by 11:15am.

Parking the truck was a breeze. A 15-minute drive to the Crowne Plaza hotel, a few minutes to pay the bill (just $7.50 per day – a bargain) then into the hotel to figure out how to get back to the ship. As I was discussing taxi and Uber options with a receptionist, a couple overheard me and offered me a ride in their Uber. They were on their way to a Norwegian Cruise Lines ship that was departing at the same time. I accepted their kind offer and had a lovely chat with them during the 40-minute trip back to the port (very heavy traffic and the tunnel was closed). They were from Lake Elsinore CA, near Temecula which was my home away from home the first winter on the road, way back in 2013. The Uber cost $15 and I gave the driver a $10 tip.

During that Uber ride I learned that Jett and her sisters were afforded “priority boarding” thanks to their use of wheelchair and walker. There may not be many advantages to having limited mobility, but this was one.

The line ahead

The line ahead

The line behind

The line behind

So far things had gone swimmingly, but that was about to change. The Uber driver let me out at the entrance to Terminal F and there was a line out the door. That, in my cruise experience, was a first. I have never had to stand in line outside a terminal before. But I had no limited mobility, so I used my perfectly fine legs to walk to the end of the line. Which was down the sidewalk, across two driveways and around the corner. At least a tenth of a mile. And it kept growing. By the time I had moved up to within a hundred yards of the entrance the line had snaked around, turned back on itself twice and was stretching into the parking lot.

No one was happy with the situation. The weather was fine, if a little cool, but if it had been a hot day people would have been collapsing. There were very few places to sit so it was an ordeal. I can only imagine how unpleasant it would have been if it had been raining. I chatted with my fellow sufferers and one of my line companions was getting agitated at people “cutting the line” or somehow, in his eyes, misbehaving. I figured that I already had my cabin reserved and there was no way the ship was going to leave without me, so I just had to endure the interminable wait.

I was optimistic that once I got through the doors to the terminal (after waiting outside about 90 minutes) that it would get better. Wrong. Getting through the door just allowed me to enter a zig-zag line approaching security. Another 45 minutes in line. Another 45 minutes listening to my line-mate harping about the situation. When I finally got to the passport checkpoint (just 2 people checking the 4.500 passengers) I was amazed to discover that they were manually comparing everyone’s passport against a printed list of numbers. The list looked to be at least 10 pages of very small print. Don’t they have an app for that? The passport checkers, not surprisingly, seemed to be uninterested in their tedious jobs and felt no urgency. Annoying.

I lost my line buddies at the passport control. They got hung up there – I don’t know why – but they were still at passport control when I was through the X-ray machine and on my way up to the check-in. I don’t know if they ever made it onto the ship. Haven’t seen them yet.

Check-in and the health screening took another 45 minutes. Total wait time before I actually stepped aboard the ship: 3 hours. I was tired and very hungry when I finally got to my cabin around 4pm. The hunger was sated with a quick trip to the buffet but the tiredness would have to wait.

Super Bowl at the pool

Super Bowl at the pool

Leaving port in the last light

Leaving port in the last light

Reflected setting sun

Reflected setting sun

We were late to the muster drill because we had to assist Sybil down 4 flights of stairs and along a stretch of the promenade. But we made it and were underway, about an hour late due to the long line at security, just at the sun was setting.

That, however, was not the end of the bad news. The balcony cabin turned out to be distressingly small and our assigned dinner time was 5:15pm – not the 7:30 seating that we requested. I spoke to the maître ‘d who took down our cabin numbers and request but made it clear that because we had chosen the “Fantastica” experience (less than the Aureal experience), we were not guaranteed a dinner seating of our choice. Seems that Fantastica might not guarantee a fantastica experience on board the ship. Nothing could be done until the next day, if then, so we had to dine at the buffet restaurant.

But that was pretty much the end of the bad news for the night. The buffet food was quite good and the ship carried the Super Bowl at several venues, including on the very large and very high resolution screen on the pool deck. It was a chilly night, but it was a pleasure being able to watch the game under the stars. Good game, too. Congratulations, KC.

We played some Hand, Knee and Foot in the buffet restaurant and took advantage of the table bar service there several times. A good time was had by all.

We were all in bed – quite comfortable – before 11pm.

Categories: Caribbean, FL, MSC1, Places | Leave a comment

Pre-cruise prep

Josh loading up at dawn's early light

Josh loading up at dawn’s early light

As I write this we are sailing away to Mexico.  I will write about the boarding process shortly.  But this post is about the final pre-cruise preparations.  Most important among those preparations was arranging care for Rusty.  Most honored stepson Joshua once more rose to the occasion, driving all the way from VA in 2 days, arriving after dark on Saturday (after visiting a hospitalized friend in Miami and going to the wrong RV park in Fort Myers) and left at dawn on Sunday, so he didn’t exactly get to see our home in its best light.  Or any light, really.

He drove straight through to VA on the return trip.  14 hours.  My back aches just thinking about it.

Dave and Cooper

Dave and Cooper

That was one week ago.  The rest of the week was pretty busy with other preparations.  Pack. Prep the truck.  Clean the car.  Charg the walkie-talkies.  Get medications.  Pay bills.  I also had a medical appointment, two softball games, a genealogy meeting, a voter registration event and various other non-trip activities.  Busy week.

Two of the most pleasant activities of the week were get-togethers with Dave and Melissa, a wonderful couple that we met last year at the dog park.  Not only are they dog lovers and full-time RVers, like us, but Melissa is a Mayflower descendant, like Jett.  So we have much in common.  Dave even blogs about their travels, like me (roadsofdiscovery.com).  They were back in the park for a month and we were delighted to see them.

Because the ship departed from Miami on Feb 2 and because Feb 2 was also the date of the Super Bowl – in Miami – it was impossible to book a room near the cruise terminal the night before sailing, which is our preference.  So Jett’s sisters, who will accompany us the first week, flew into Fort Myers, stayed in a hotel overnight and rode with us to Miami Sunday morning.  Because we had to transport 4 people and a boatload (almost literally) of luggage, I had to use the truck.  So perhaps only for the second time in the nearly 8 years we have owned the truck we had human passengers in the back seat.

I am happy to report that the truck ran flawlessly and delivered us all safely to the cruise terminal.  But I will cover that when I report on the first day of the cruise, which I will designate  ‘MSC1’ because it is our first cruise on MSC.

Categories: Family, FL, MSC1, Places | Leave a comment

“One False Move” by Harlan Coben

Copyright 1998 by Harlan Coben. Published by Dell, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.

Some (a few?) of you may recall that I reviewed another Harlan Coben book, The Woods, back in August and raved about it.  One of the best mysteries that I have read in many years.  Well, this is the same author but a different protagonist, Myron Bolitar (5th in the series).  I am not raving about this one.

Myron Bolitar is a sports agent, forced into that profession by an injury that ended his short NBA career.  He is good at what he does.  In this book he is representing a young professional female basketball player, Brenda Slaughter, the star of a new women’s league.  She is not only talented but is also beautiful and Myron falls for her.  But this is not just a simple pro/agent romance; she is also being harassed by person or persons unknown and, shortly, becomes the prime suspect in her father’s murder.

Not much of what Myron can see initially makes much sense.  Why was her father murdered?  Why did her mother disappear 20 years prior when Brenda was just 5?  Why is she now getting anonymous phone calls telling her to find her mother?  What, if anything, does this have to do with Arthur Bradford, her mother’s employer when she disappeared and who is now running for governor of New Jersey?

It is a complex tale and it takes nearly 400 pages for Myron to unravel it.  He figures it out eventually, with the help of his sidekick, Windsor Horne Lockwood III (“Win” for short) who is an unlikely combination of financial advisor and preppy headcracker – he saves Myron’s butt more than once.  He is one of these literary characters who could be tied to the tracks with a freight train just seconds away from crushing the life out of him and he would be smiling and cracking wise because somehow he will find a way out of the predicament.  I suppose he is fun as comic relief, but it is hard to take a book seriously with a character like him.

So this should have been a book that I couldn’t put down and yet I did.  Many times.  In the end I admired the complexity of the plot and will concede that most of the loose ends (but not all) were tied up.  And I didn’t guess the culprit.  But it wasn’t a fun read.

5 out of 10.

Categories: Books | Leave a comment

Another try at a cruise

MSC Meraviglia

MSC Meraviglia

We like cruises. They are, in our view, very relaxing and generally a good value. We have always had a good time. Even our aborted attempt at a 27-night transatlantic/Mediterranean cruse last April, interrupted halfway through by Jett’s hemoglobin problem, was fun until it wasn’t. So we are going to try again. This time it is a 14-night cruise on the MSC Meraviglia, a huge (4,500 passengers) and new (built in 2017) ship.  It is actually 2 back-to-back 7-night cruises (in the same cabin!) with different Caribbean itineraries:

First week:

  • Day 1 Miami Depart 5:00pm
  • Day 2 Cruising
  • Day 3 Costa Maya, Mexico Arrive 8:00am – Depart 5:00pm
  • Day 4 Belize City, Belize Arrive 8:00am – Depart 6:00pm
  • Day 5 Roatan, Bay Islands, Honduras Arrive 9:00am – Depart 5:00pm
  • Day 6 Cruising
  • Day 7 Ocean Cay Msc Marine Reserve (private island) Arrive 9:00am – Depart 11:55pm
  • Day 8 Miami Arrive 7:00am

Second week:

  • Day 1 Miami Depart 7:00pm
  • Day 2 Cruising
  • Day 3 Ocho Rios, Jamaica Arrive 9:00am – Depart 5:00pm
  • Day 4 Georgetown, Cayman Islands Arrive 8:00am – Depart 4:00pm
  • Day 5 Cozumel, Mexico Arrive 10:00am – Depart 6:00pm
  • Day 6 Cruising
  • Day 7 Ocean Cay Msc Marine Reserve (private island) Arrive 9:00am – Depart 11:55pm
  • Day 8 Miami Arrive 7:00am

We have been to many of these ports on previous cruises, but have never been to Ocho Rios or MSC’s Ocean Cay, so we are especially looking forward to those.  On the first week we will be accompanied by Jett’s sisters, Sybil and Christine.  It will be our first cruise with them, so that should be fun, too.  But I will be outnumbered, so wish me luck.

We will bring Jett’s wheelchair, to eliminate the need for her to walk if there is any roll while at sea. But we are hoping we won’t have to use it much. Sybil will bring hers, too, for the same reason.

We are really hoping that we complete the full two weeks without any medical issues.  I guess one of the advantages of the back-to-back cruises is that we will never be more than 7 days away from Miami. But, just in case, we have purchased the trip insurance.

One of the most difficult aspects of arranging this trip was getting to the ship.  We booked the cruise, out of the Port of Miami, departing Sunday, February 2.  That just happens to be Super Bowl Sunday, played this year in… yes, Miami.  So our usual plan of staying overnight near the cruise port suddenly became very expensive, both for us and for Jett’s sisters – over $400 for a single night in a hotel.  So Plan B was to have Sybil and Christine fly into Fort Myers, stay overnight there and we would all drive together to Miami in the morning – a 2.5 hour trip.  The only problem with that plan was that the Corolla was simply not large enough to take 4 adults, their luggage and 2 wheelchairs.  So we will have to take the truck.  I will park it at the Crowne Plaza, which is where I left it for the last cruise, so I know that the plan is feasible.  But I certainly would rather have traveled to Miami the day before.  The truck has been working well (as evidenced by the trip to Ocala), but it is less reliable than the Corolla.  I will just have to keep my fingers crossed.

Categories: Adventures, Caribbean, Places | Leave a comment

Earrings

Happiness is new earrings

Happiness is new earrings

Getting pierced

Getting pierced

This may not seem like a big deal, but it is. Jett got her ears pierced a few days ago and is now wearing earrings again. It is a big deal because she had to remove her earrings back in May when radiation treatments began and has had to keep them out due to CT scans and MRIs. Getting her ears pierced and starting to wear earrings again is a sign of both recovery and defiance – she is not going to let cancer rule her life.

Categories: Health | Leave a comment

A slow start, but a start

2020 has started slowly, which is not necessarily a bad thing.  We skipped the New Year’s Eve dance and dinner and celebrated quietly at home.  The theme of the celebration was “happy to be alive” because being alive at the start of 2020 is something that, for Jett, seemed unlikely back in May.

My Genealogy Group also started slowly, in part because it didn’t get into the resort’s events calendar. Don’t ask me why.  So a day before the first meeting I posted a notice in the resort’s activities Facebook page. That drew two people to the meeting and expressions of interest from several others.  A third person showed up at the second meeting, so the group is growing by 50% each week.

I also had my first softball game of the season.  I think I had only one legitimate hit in 5 at-bats, but I scored 3 runs to help the team to an 18-12 opening day victory.  I feared that the team would be offensively challenged, but that was not the case.  Hopefully the offense – especially my offense – will just get better as the season goes on.

So everything is starting slowly.  But successfully.

Categories: Genealogy, Health, Sports | Leave a comment

Hair!

Jett began losing her hair in June and it was pretty much completely gone by July 4 (though she never lost her eyebrows, for which she was very grateful).  In early November her doctor told her that her hair might never come back; that she might be permanently bald.  While that was not good news, it was not devastating news.  We both agreed that a good life without hair was still a good life.

But in the past few weeks her hair has started to reappear.  She still looks like an inductee into the Marines, but there is no doubt that the hair is returning.

That is a good way to end 2019.

1231191637b

Categories: Health | Leave a comment

Christmas meals

Christmas dinner at the resort

Christmas dinner at the resort

Lunch with Tony

Lunch with Tony

I had two Christmas meals this year: the traditional Christmas dinner at the RV resort and lunch on Dec 26 with my son in Ocala.  The Christmas meal was quite good – and free!  We only had to bring a pot luck dish; the turkey and ham was provided by the resort.  Jett didn’t come as she was not feeling well enough to be out in public, but I took a very nice plate home to her and she declared the turkey to be “the best ever.”  Quite a compliment from someone her age.

The following day I took the truck to Ocala to have lunch with my son Tony.  That was about 7 hours of driving for a 2-hour lunch break.  I wouldn’t have done it were it not for my need to gain some confidence in the truck’s health as we may need to use the truck to get to our cruise in February.  And it needed the exercise: it had traveled less than 200 miles in 6 months.  I am happy to report that the truck performed flawlessly.  And it was nice to share a meal with my son.  In case you are wondering, he has his hand over his beer to keep the bees out.  We had several bees buzzing about and one took a dive right into his beer about 15 seconds after it arrived at the table.  I fished it out and it staggered away.

Categories: Family, FL, Food, Places, RV Living | Leave a comment