STE1 Hop 6: Salina UT to Moab UT

STE1 Hop 6

STE1 Hop 6

I-70 east near Devil's Canyon. Scary.

I-70 east near Devil’s Canyon. Scary.

199 miles via US 50, UT 24, UT 118, UT 120, I-70 and US 191. Cumulative tow miles: 1210. Truck miles: 236. Cumulative truck miles: 1380.

This hop was not in the original plan. The basic trip – Salina UT to Moab UT – was the result of chopping out Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks and Monument Valley. They were chopped because I just didn’t trust the truck enough to take it into such desolate places. And the breakdown had cost us 3 days of schedule. So straight to Moab, arriving 4 days earlier than originally planned. We will likely use those days in STE2 and STE3 as those segments had a lot of 1-night stays, which are never fun.

But Salina to Moab is only about 160 miles. The other 40 miles was basically a shakedown trip down to Richfield UT and back. I had rented a car on Monday, thinking that the truck would not be fixed. When the GMC dealer unexpectedly found and fixed the problem in one afternoon, I kept the car, thinking that I would hang onto it until I tested the truck with a short tow. So 20 miles down to Richfield – no problem. Pick up the car, return it to the rental agency, get our propane tanks filled, then back up to Salina to top off. Then, finally, off on the hop east on I-70.

I had never traveled I-70 through Utah before and it was a revelation. Simply beautiful. Jett took photo after photo because every bend in the road presented a new vista. We also stopped at a number of scenic overlooks, both to take some photos and to give the truck a rest. There were two tough hauls up and over passes that exceeded 7500 feet.

Devil's Canyon overlook

Devil’s Canyon overlook

Pinyon tree?

Pinyon tree?

First overlook

First overlook

Salt wash overlook

Salt wash overlook

Our (unexpected) home for 3 nights was “RV Camp” – an unnamed, unadvertised, tiny 20-site camp that was conveniently located behind the K & K Auto Service shop where we first had our truck problem diagnosed. It was very fortunate that we didn’t have to go any further to unhitch because the truck was a very sick puppy at that point on Saturday afternoon. Even though K & K was unable to fix the problem on Monday, they had a flatbed that could take the truck down to the GMC dealership in Richfield UT.

The park had no amenities, but had a wonderful, welcoming host (thanks for everything, Stacy) and it kept us warm, safe and very comfortable during a very difficult time.

At RV Camp

At RV Camp

View north from RV Camp

View north from RV Camp

Categories: Places, Routes, RV Parks, STE, UT | Leave a comment

Breakdown update

Our baby on the flatbed

Our baby on the flatbed

We are, tonight, sleeping for a third night in a place we never intended to visit – Salina UT. The truck had some kind of major electrical problem which prevented it from running smoothly. Compounding that problem was our older battery (the truck has 2) which decided to pile on and fail. I was unable to even start the truck this morning (in 30-degree temperatures, with frost on the windshield) to drive it 100 yards to the repair shop. It just barely turned over and acted as if both batteries were completely drained. When I tried to start it again, about 15 seconds later, it started fine, no problem at all. But the clock had been reset because the voltage had gone so low, temporarily, that it couldn’t keep its time. Weird.

Anyway, I got the truck to the shop around 9am. Fortunately they were actually working today (Columbus Day). But the mechanic admitted that he had never worked on a DuraMax engine and from what he could see of the problem the cylinder head would have to be removed – very expensive! He recommended that I have it towed 20 miles to Richfield to the GMC dealer there.

I called the GMC dealership and they agreed to take a look, but made no promises on when it could be worked on. Lacking any other options, I loaded the truck onto a flatbed for a $150 mile trip to the dealership.

I told the dealership that I would need a rental car, assuming that there was no possibility that they would be able to diagnose and fix the problem in one afternoon. They gave me the number of the local Enterprise office. I called. No cars. Maybe some later today. I left my number and asked them to call me back when they had a car.

Being noon and having nothing better to do, I walked the 1.5 miles to the Enterprise office. Closed for lunch. So I walked over to a drive-in diner and had a decent lunch. After lunch I checked the Enterprise office again. Still closed. So I walked the half mile to the only other car rental place in town, housed at the local Ford dealership. They had cars, so I rented one, drove to the nearby Walmart to do a bit of shopping, then drove back to the GMC dealership where they were busy diagnosing my problem. I sat and waited and an hour later – around 2:30pm – the service manager came to me, said they think they had found the problem and could fix it in about 1.5 hours. I gave my blessing.

I got the truck back around 4:30 and immediately set off on a 10-mile test drive on local streets and I-70. Everything seemed fine. However, I won’t be convinced that the problem is truly fixed until I try towing the RV. So tomorrow morning we are going to hitch up, travel the 20 miles to the GMC dealership and, if everything is fine, pick up the rental car, return it and set off on the next leg of our journey.

If we have problems during that towing test drive we will limp to whatever RV campground is most convenient, unhitch, drive the truck back to the dealership, leave it for additional diagnostics, pick up the car and return to the RV.

And settle in for however long it takes.

The electrical problem was caused by a faulty injector connector. Cost of the part: $89. Cost of the new battery: $124. Total cost, with tow: about $600. Not cheap but cheaper than any kind of fix that would have required removal of the cylinder head.

Needless to say, we are praying that the problem is truly fixed. We want to continue on our way. It is becoming rather urgent that we get across the Rockies soon: Denver had 4 inches of snow last night.

Keeping fingers crossed for a successful test drive tomorrow…

Oh – I am still waiting for Enterprise to call back.

Categories: Adventures, Places, STE, UT | 2 Comments

STE1 Hop 5: North Salt Lake City UT to Salina UT

STE1 Hop 5

STE1 Hop 5


157 miles via I-15, UT 50 and local roads. Cumulative tow miles: 1011. Truck miles: 226. Cumulative truck miles: 1144.

This was not the hop that I planned because the truck failed us when we got to Salina. Everything was fine until I got to a stop sign where UT 50 took a left into town. Stepped on the gas… nothing. Just some funny noises from the engine. It was still running but no power whatsoever. I looked at the dashboard and, sure enough, the “check engine” light was on. Shades of Stony Brook VA where we had a problem with the electrical connection to injector #7 about 2 years ago. I shut off the engine for a minute, restarted it and had enough power to complete the left turn and get into a service station. The attendant there gave me a number to call. Got a guy who told me to take the rig to K&K Auto Service about a mile away. Drove the rig there and found a guy who diagnosed the problem – injector #2 – but was unable to fix it (not a diesel guy). He reset the code and we tried to move on, but the problem recurred immediately.

We have been very lucky when we have had problems with the rig on the road. We made it through our early blowouts relatively unscathed (though the RV took some hits), with no change to our itinerary. Even the injector problem in Stony Brook, though it delayed us by a day, turned out surprisingly well as a mechanic in a little shop in a little town was able to diagnose and fix the issue for a low cost.

I have to say that our luck is still holding. We could easily have been stranded in the middle of nowhere (and there is a lot of nowhere in southern Utah). But the truck was gracious enough to break down in a place where we could deal with a serious problem with minimal discomfort. While we were unable to get to Richfield, 15 miles distant, where there is a GMC dealer, the K&K shop is adjacent to an RV park that had vacancies. We were able to hook up and settle in for a very nice dinner (filet mignon – a treat we felt we deserved) and, surprisingly, TV. While this little park – which appears in no travel guides – had no cable, it had surprisingly good over-the-air TV reception. On our bedroom TV (which always pulls in more channels than the living room TV – don’t ask me why) we got 25 channels, all with good signal strength. That, to me, is mind-boggling. Salina is in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by mountains. Where are the TV towers?

So we are safe and warm for the weekend. I will take the truck back to K&K first thing on Monday and see if the diesel guy can solve my problem. Otherwise I will drive the 15 miles to the GMC dealer and see if they can help. Best case: we are able to move on to Kanab UT on Monday after a quick, cheap fix. Worse case: we stay in Salina for another day or two and have to adjust our itinerary while GMC figures out the problem.

Sunset over I-215

Sunset over I-215

I did have to cancel the two nights that we were planning on staying in Bryce Canyon, which puts my visit to Bryce Canyon at risk. But if we make it to Kanab on Monday I can make a day trip to Bryce Canyon in place of my planned day trip to the north rim of the Grand Canyon. But the RV park in Bryce Canyon didn’t penalize us for the late cancellation – they took pity on us and wished us well. Nice!

I have posted my photos from Salt Lake City, but haven’t mentioned our RV park there – the Pony Express RV Resort. We really liked this park. Huge sites with concrete pads, very nice facilities, very well-maintained. A dog park that Rusty loved. Only about 15 minutes to downtown Salt Lake City. It suited our needs very well.

It wasn’t the most scenic park, however. We were adjacent to I-215 (the beltway around Salt Lake City) and our view was mostly of a huge gravel pit and a Chevron refinery. But the sunsets were very nice and, not surprisingly, the weather was very clear (the area averages 72% of possible sunshine in October).

One surprise for us was our failure to get even a glimpse of the Great Salt Lake. It is a huge lake and I thought it would be a prominent feature in the region – like Lake Michigan in Chicago. But it is kept well hidden and doesn’t figure into the geographical attractiveness of the area at all. The snow-capped mountains that hover over the city, on the other hand, dominate.

With our stay in North Salt Lake, we were able to add Utah to our map. Number 45. 3 to go.

View from the park entrance

View from the park entrance

Sunset over the mountains

Sunset over the mountains

#45 - Utah

#45 – Utah

Categories: Adventures, Places, Routes, RV Parks, STE, UT | 2 Comments

Salt Lake City

We spent four days in Salt Lake City and didn’t really get a chance to do any sightseeing until the last day. We didn’t take the 45-minute tour of Temple Square because the website told us that we had to book a day in advance. Not true, but even when given the opportunity to join one we declined. No tour enters the sacred Temple and we got plenty of information about each building – the two visitor centers, the Tabernaccle, the Temple and the Assembly Hall – from the dozens of volunteers who staffed each one. We saw everything we wanted to see. The highlight was the Tabernacle, home of the famous Mormon Tabernacle Choir. It looks like a domed gymnasium, which was a surprise to me. An even bigger surprise was that the Tabernacle was built first and existed at the time the building of the Temple got underway in 1850. Who built domed buildings in the 19th century?

Christ among the start

Christ among the stars

The temple

The Temple

The Tabernacle

The Tabernacle

Handcart status

Handcart statue

Inside the Tabernacle

Inside the Tabernacle

Jett, puzzled by the staircase

Jett, puzzled by the staircase

Details of the Temple model

Details of the Temple model

The Temple from the Tabernacle

The Temple from the Tabernacle

Cutaway model of the Temple

Cutaway model of the Temple

Inside the Assembly Hall

Inside Assembly Hall

City Creek Mall

City Creek Mall

The interiors of both the Tabernacle and the Assembly Hall were beautiful, somewhat reminiscent of the interiors of the colonial churches in Boston – the Old South Church and King’s Chapel. The Assembly Hall had a spiral staircase that intrigued both Jett and me. We didn’t ask where it led.

Though entry into the Temple was prohibited, a very detailed cutaway model of the Temple is offered in the South Visitors Center, in front of a window facing the Temple so that you can look at the model and then look at the full-sized building. Very interesting model and a very nice presentation.

I also liked the Handcart Pioneer statue. Having driven some very long hops to get to Salt Lake City, I fully appreciated the effort it took to walk all the way, pulling a heavy handcart. Incredible achievement.

We also used our day in Salt Lake City to check out the City Creek Center mall, a very nice urban mall adjacent to Temple Square.

LDS office building

LDS office building

Temple Square gardens

Temple Square gardens

Assembly Hall

Assembly Hall

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STE1 Hop 4: Jerome ID to North Salt Lake City UT

STE Hop 4

STE Hop 4

217 miles on I-84, I-15 and local roads, with a refueling stop. Cumulative tow miles: 854. Truck miles: 244. Cumulative truck miles: 918.

Again, easy navigation (Jett loves these hops!). Again, beautiful scenery. There were some climbs, but no overly taxing ones. So I really don’t understand why our gas mileage was so poor. Normally our one-tank range is about 240 miles, so I didn’t plan a refueling stop for this hop. But it became apparent, as we approached the outskirts of Ogden, that we would be on fumes when and if we arrived. So we pulled off and got 10 gallons at a Pilot truck stop in Ogden. Not a big deal, but disappointing and a bit puzzling.

Our overnight home was the Twin Falls/Jerome KOA. KOA is always decent, never spectacular. Unfortunately, KOA sites are always cramped. I like KOA for overnights because they are predictable, but I would avoid them for long-term stays.

As I mentioned previously, I caught a spectacular sunset in Twin Falls while I was out trying to get Italian food for dinner (which I did, at Tomato’s – quite good). I also got a glimpse of the spectacular Snake River gorge as it snaked (get it?) through Twin Falls. Other than that I went out three separate times to get supplies and fuel: to Walmart for food, to the local Phillips 66 and TA truck stop for cigarettes (cheaper than NH!) and back to TA for propane because KOA couldn’t fill my tank until the afternoon.

Our site

Our site

I needed the propane because I woke up at 4am in a room so cold I could have had icicles on my nose. The propane had run out, so I had to go outside – temperature 29 – and switch my propane tanks. That only took a minute, but no one wants to go outside, at 4am, in his pajamas, in sub-freezing cold. Yes, the water line nearly froze (a trickle for a minute before it broke loose) and frost on the windshield when I went out on my morning errands.

Florida can’t come soon enough.

Categories: ID, Places, Routes, RV Parks, STE | Leave a comment

STE1 Hop 3: Huntington OR to Jerome ID

STE1 Hop 3

STE1 Hop 3

200 miles, almost totally on I-84. Cumulative tow miles: 634. Truck miles: 224. Cumulative truck miles: 674.

Another easy navigation hop: get on I-84 east, drive about 200 miles, get off. There was a bit of construction, but the delays were minimal. Weather was good, scenery was gorgeous. A very pleasant hop. For me, anyway.

For Jett the hop was pure misery. She was not feeling well and it was all she could do to keep from vomiting while I drove. We got to Jerome (just a few miles from Twin Falls) and she fell into bed. Fortunately, after a couple of hours of sleep she felt better. In fact, she felt so well that she sent me out to get some Italian food for dinner. On the way I took a shot of an awesome sunset.

Sunset in Twin Falls

Sunset in Twin Falls

The gorge cut by the Snake River just north of Twin Falls is also pretty impressive. I don’t think my photos adequately captured its grandeur due to the twilight lighting, but if you ever get to Twin Falls definitely check it out.

Snake River gorge

Snake River gorge

We stayed two nights in Huntington OR at the Catfish Junction RV Park. When we arrived my first impression was that we were stuck in the middle of nowhere and was regretting booking two nights. But the setting, near a bend in the Snake River, is incredibly beautiful, with ever-changing cloud patterns. I think it is arguably the most beautiful place we have ever been. I got dozens of great photos, only a few of which are included here.

I had to travel to Weiser ID to refuel. I did this on Sunday around noon and found a city more tightly shut down than any I have seen in decades. Not a soul on the streets and not a single establishment open for business – not the sports bar where I was planning on watching the Patriots/Panthers game and not the gas station where I was planning on getting fuel. Fortunately the pumps at the gas station were operational so I was able to accomplish that goal. And I found a little bar over the river in Oregon where I could catch highlights of the game on the NFL Channel. But I have to say that Weiser was downright spooky.

Oh – the Patriots lost. That is twice now that I have sought out a bar to watch the game and twice that they have lost. I don’t think I will try to watch them in a bar again.

Sunset on the bend

Sunset on the bend

The bend, Tuesday morning

The bend, Tuesday morning

Sunshine and showers

Sunshine and showers

Rainbow

Rainbow

Sunset on the mountains

Sunset on the mountains

The bend on a sunny day

The bend on a sunny day

Categories: ID, OR, Places, Routes, RV Parks, STE | Leave a comment

STE1 Hop 2: Boardman OR to Huntington OR

STE1 Hop 2

STE1 Hop 2

198 miles via I-84 and US 201. Cumulative tow miles: 437. Truck miles: 211. Cumulative truck miles: 450.

We started this hop at an elevation near 500′ and ended at 2100′. But in getting to Huntington we had a couple of heavy climbs, one topping out at over 4500′. It was a more strenuous hop than I had expected.

But the weather was fine and the road (I-84) was very smooth, unlike the I-84 in CT that we detest. And there was a conveniently placed rest stop on the first climb, just east of Pendleton, at the ominously named Deadman’s Pass.

This pass appears on the list of “most dangerous roads” in America. It wasn’t all that dangerous in good weather, but I sure wouldn’t want to traverse it in snow.

But it did have a nice view.

View from Deadman's Pass

View from Deadman’s Pass

Our home for one night in Boardman OR was the Driftwood RV Resort. This was an interesting park in certain respects. Most notably, it had an indoor pool – just the 4th park we have found with that amenity. It also had flies, which were really annoying. On the morning of our departure I killed over 20 flies inside the RV. I don’t know how they got in as I have never had that problem before or since. Maybe through the seams in the slides?

We were happy that we didn’t stay longer. Because of the flies we would probably avoid this park in the future.

Another view from Deadman's Pass

Another view from Deadman’s Pass

Categories: OR, Places, Routes, RV Parks, STE | Leave a comment

STE1 Hop 1: Tillamook OR to Boardman OR

STE1 Hop 1

STE1 Hop 1

239 miles via US 101, OR 6, I-405 and I-5 (in Portland) and I-84 through the Columbia Gorge, with a refueling stop.

The drama of this hop is captured in the map above, which is incorrect. Google insisted, up until the moment we left Tillamook, that I-84 was closed through the Columbia Gorge due to a wildfire. I could not find any corroboration for that. To the contrary, the Oregon DOT website reported that I-84 was open and had been open for nearly a week. I can’t explain Google’s inability to change the status because it is usually pretty good about this. But, because I couldn’t get an accurate map, we had to first route ourself to the refueling stop (a Love’s truck stop just east of Portland), then continue on I-84 east.

I-84 east was, indeed, open. However, it also had some significant construction that cost us about 30 minutes of nasty traffic. The result was that his hop took nearly 5.5 hours – one of our longest, time-wise, hops on this entire trip. And most of it was done in rain.

Not a fun hop.

I did get one decent photo at a rest stop in the gorge.

Columbia River in the Gorge

Columbia River in the Gorge

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STW3 wrapup

The third and final segment of the Second Trip West ended at Tillamook OR. We spent 5 nights there at the Tillamook Bay City RV Park. This is a basic park that we chose because it was close to Tillamook and it had cable TV. Very good cable TV – like 90 channels. There were a couple of must-see shows scheduled for those nights. Besides, we stayed at a lot of parks on the STW that not only had no cable, but had no over-the-air reception either. There were quite a few nights when we used the TV to play DVDs. I guess we had a TV deficit.

Mega RV

Mega RV

Yurt

Yurt

The last night at the park our neighbors were a French couple traveling in a huge, heavy-duty RV unlike anything I have ever seen in person before, but which looked very much like a unit that was featured on one of those “mega RV” TV shows. If I recall, the unit cost upwards of $1 million and could travel just about anywhere. A ladder with 6 steps was needed to reach the door. The unit was brought over on a ship. I had to wonder how much it cost to transport it across the Atlantic, but I guess if you can afford the RV the cost of shipping it is not an issue.

The other interesting feature of the park was a new yurt – kind of a Mongolian teepee with a wooden floor. The one at Tillamook/Bay City was very nice, with a plastic cap that let light in and could be raised to let smoke out. Someday I am going to have to get a closer look at one of these. Just get a look – I don’t actually have to stay in one. But maybe I would enjoy it. We’ll see.

The numbers for STW3: 1095 tow miles in 7 hops and 16 nights. 1698 truck miles. Total campground cost: $801.60 ($50.10 per night). The most expensive park, by far, was Yellowstone Grizzly in West Yellowstone MT – $78.16 per night.

The highlights:

  • Yellowstone National Park.  Old Faithful was a treat, but the unexpected encounter with a huge herd of buffalo was even better.
  • Mt Saint Helens. This was a long day trip, but it was great seeing the mountain fully recovered after 35 years.
  • Tillamook.  I got in a nice round of golf at Alderbrook Golf Course and we had some great times with my sister and her husband.

The lowlights:

  • The weather. Starting with the 2″ snowfall in West Yellowstone, the cold, mostly dreary weather dogged us until we got to Mt Saint Helens.  It was more like late fall than late summer.
  • Missing out on seeing my niece and nephews in Tillamook.  I was really hoping to see some, if not all of them.  And I was very interested in meeting my new grand nephew.  But all were busy – and some were in Europe – so I completely struck out on seeing them.
  • The flat tire in Ennis.  This was not a typical flat tire due to a nail in the road; this was me kicking the valve stem and deflating the tire.  But AAA came to the rescue and put the spare on.
  • Nearly losing the spare while rolling down I-90 at 70 mph.  The AAA guy didn’t tighten the lugnuts enough and the tire came close – too damn close – to falling off while we were traveling.

I guess the fact that I have more lowlights than highlights mark this as the least “successful” of the three STW segments.  But we made it to Tillamook unscathed so I have to say that we did okay.

Final tally for the STW:

  • 4158 tow miles
  • 6933 truck miles
  • 59 days
  • $2896.32 in campground fees ($49.09 per night)

 

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Second Trip East (STE) preview

The Second Trip East (STE) will start in Tillamook OR and will terminate in Naples FL, out home for the winter (if anything is left after Hurricane Irma). It will pass through, among others, the four states that are missing from our map: Utah, Colorado, Nebraska and Kansas. It then drops down to southeast Texas (if anything is left after Hurricane Harvey) and ends with a trip along the entire US coast of the Gulf of Mexico. The plan is to travel the distance – just about 5300 miles – in 28 hops and 52 days. That is more than one hop every two days, so there will be a lot of traveling and no long-term stays.

Like the STW, the STE is organized into 3 segments.

STE1: Tillamook OR to Moab UT

STE1 Plan

STE1 Plan

9 hops, 1555 miles, 18 nights.

This segment will add Utah to our map and will give us opportunities to see some great national parks.  It also gets us further south, to reduce the chance of seeing more snow.

Highlights:

  • Columbia River Gorge. I have never been up the Columbia River before.  It is reportedly beautiful. Or was, before the recent forest fires.
  • Salt Lake City. I hope to check out the Mormon genealogical archives, to see what they can offer. If they are good (and everyone says they are), maybe we will come back this way to do some research sometime in the future.
  • Bryce Canyon National Park.
  • Zion National Park.
  • North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park.  This will be a long day trip, so it might not happen if I am tired of all the driving.
  • Monument Valley.
  • Arches National Park.

STE2: Moab UT to Corpus Christi TX

STE2 Plan

STE2 Plan

9 hops, 1936 miles, 16 nights.

This segment will complete our 48-state map by adding Colorado, Nebraska and Kansas.  It will also give us a day in Denver and a chance to visit an Indian reservation.

Highlights:

  • The Rocky Mountains. Hopefully I will be able to enjoy them without dodging snowflakes.
  • Denver.
  • The Osage Nation Museum.
  • Austin TX and possibly a dinner at Café Malta, the fine restaurant owned by Jett’s nephew.
  • Corpus Christi and the Texas coast recently ravished by Hurricane Harvey. If the damage is too severe we may have to bypass this area.  Hope not.

STE3: Corpus Christi TX to Naples FL

STE3 Plan

STE3 Plan

10 hops, 1871 miles, 18 nights.

This will be a lot of miles in relatively few hops.  I expect that we will be exhausted by the time we arrive in Naples.  But we will have at least 5 months to recover.

Highlights:

  • South Padre Island. We want to check out the RV parks in the area.
  • Mission TX. Ditto.
  • Galveston TX. Again, we may have to bypass this area if the damage is too severe.
  • New Orleans.  Jett has been there but I haven’t.  It will be a nice day trip.
  • Gulf of Mexico parks in Gulf Shores AL, Port St Joe and Cedar Key FL.
Categories: Preparation/Planning, Routes, STE | Leave a comment